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Tricia de Courcy Ling
Steam is a thriving local wine bar with a decent restaurant. The wine list is of moderate length and ambition (by-the-glass drinkers would appreciate whites that go beyond pinot grigio, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc, for example).
The dark-hued dining area at the back features a short, quite conservative menu, heavy on steak and chips - there were no fewer than three varieties on our visit - along with a short list of pasta and fish dishes. A starter of pan-fried scallops with romano peppers, pak choi and fennel salad featured bivalves that were properly seared outside and tender within, thanks to spot-on timing. A generously proportioned main course of fresh egg linguine with lobster, tomato and chilli overdid it on the chilli, overwhelming the delicate seafood.
Desserts are old-fashioned faves such as sticky toffee pudding (ours was served scaldingly hot), cheesecakes and the like. The set-price dinner menu is decent value (£15 for two courses, £18.50 for three) and the Sunday lunch menu features more than simple roasts. One to bear in mind if you're in the neighbourhood.
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What is 'following'?Transport Clapham Junction or Wandsworth Town rail or bus 37, 87, 170, 337
020 8704 4680
Lunch served 11am-3.30pm Sat; 11am-4pm Sun. Dinner served 6-10.30pm Tue-Sat
Main courses £10-£18.50. Set dinner £15 2 courses, £18.50 3 courses
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 2, pavement ), Babies and children welcome ( children's menu; high chairs; nappy-changing facilities ), Separate room for parties ( seats 20 ), Available for hire, Disabled ( toilet )We had foie gras, duck & caramelised apple terrine with toast, roast rump of beef with horseradish cream & a huge yorkshire pudding and slow roast pork belly which was just ok. Service very slow on a Sunday lunch which wasn't that busy due to the lack of waiters (just 2).
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