Tom Ilic

Peeping out from the 'O' in Tom Ilic's logo is a cartoon pig. The theme continues inside, in the shape of a few ornamental brass oinkers adding a grunt of insouciance to what is otherwise a fairly formal deep red and cream dining room. A couple of giant mirrors are judiciously positioned to lend a convincing illusion of space. Typical customers are a fraction older than the norm, perhaps attracted by what is a classic, meat-laden menu.

There's plenty of pork, of course, plus oxtail, sweetbreads, rabbit saddle and more - this is not a million miles removed from Fergus Henderson's British brand of nose-to-tail eating. House special is the degustation of pork, which (vegetarians, beware) was a tantalisingly arranged platter of pig's cheek and trotter with medallions of black pudding, sourced from the British Isles.

Presentation is something that Tom Ilic does well, and the lamb was equally enticing; a succulent braised shoulder and roast rump were good textural contrasts, set off by the sweet tang of garlic runner beans and gratin potato. In just a few years, Ilic's restaurant has garnered quite a following, and justly so. Given the quality, this is great-value food.