Özer

Though it's a branch of the plush Sofra chain, Özer sits slightly uncomfortably in the Turkish section. In appearance it resembles a fine-dining operation: there's a long cocktail bar, a relaxed area with low seating and cushions, and a more starched section at the back with linen tablecloths and burnished walls. Perfect service is overseen by a besuited maître d'.

The menu is too wide-ranging to be pigeon-holed: along with a range of Mediterranean dishes such as meatballs, moussaka and meze, incongruous items such as prawns with sweet chilli, or roast beef and yorkshire pud pop up. (Plastered across the menu is owner Huseyin Özer's peculiar promise/threat: 'If it is not to your taste, I'll eat it myself.') There are also several dishes that seem to be aimed at Regent Street shoppers - see the grilled salmon salad and good-value lunch platter offering 12 meze (£12.95).

Nothing wrong with all this, of course, but treat Özer like a better sort of Turkish restaurant and you'll be best rewarded. Meze are made with care and high-quality ingredients, and many of the mains (lamb stew with smoked aubergine caviar; lahmacun, here called lahmazza) take care to steer away from the well-trodden kebab route.