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Empress of Sichuan

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6-7 Lisle St, WC2H 7BG Full details & map

Restaurant: Sichuanese

© Ed Marshall

Time Out says   3 Users say 2/5 Rate it

Posted: Feb 11 2010

Sichuan is flavour of the moment in London. Even established Cantonese restaurants are hiring a Sichuan chef and pepping up the menu with a score or more of the spicy dishes from China's western region.

Empress of Sichuan occupies the former site of the short-lived Keelung in Chinatown, and retains many of its features; the photographs of the brat pack on the walls sends mixed messages. As does the menu, which is lengthy, often expensive, and intersperses Sichuan with other dishes, prefaced by a page stating the chef's credentials.

His version of 'bear's paw tofu' - a classic Sichuan dish - comprised of thin slices of pan-fried beancurd mixed with slivers of velvety pork. The sauce was pleasingly slithery with a moderately hot and savoury effect on the palate, with just a hint of ginger and shards of spring onion; the puckered appearance of the tofu lends the dish the 'bear's paw' name, while black fungus (cloud ear mushrooms) adds both contrast of colour and texture. An excellent dish.

Bitter melon had been cut into celery-like moon-shaped slivers, then dry-fried until tender; the bitterness of the gourd was not unpleasant once tempered by the wok. Another winner.

Dish three was the biggest disappointment. Dan dan noodles are the most famous street food of Sichuan, renowned for their appealing kick of numbing Sichuan pepper combined with the heat of chilli oil. Getting the balance right is tricky.

The chef here dodged the difficulty entirely by cooking up a dish with no discernable sichuan pepper kick, and only the mildest of chilli kicks. This didn't so much resemble dan dan noodles as linguine bolognese.

Service was pleasant, but not very attentive or clued up about explaining the dishes. At the next table, a food blogger was being hosted by two men who appeared to be restaurant managers. The blogger boasted about his blogging contacts and his love for Chinese food, but also how there were some things on this menu he wasn't prepared to eat - ears being among them. His companions were, of course, all ears. Don't be surprised to read shilling about this Empress elsewhere.

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Empress of Sichuan details

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Address

Empress of Sichuan

6-7 Lisle St WC2H 7BG

Transport Leicester Square tube

Telephone

020 7734 8128

Open Noon-11pm Mon-Thur; noon-11.30pm Fri, Sat; noon-11.30pm Sun

Meal for two with drinks and service: around £60

Empress of Sichuan map

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Comments & ratings 2/5 (Average of 3 ratings)

By Wisky Chna - Apr 18 2012

We had an unbelievably BAD experience at the Empress of Sichuan! We got to know this restaurant in conjunction with Terracotta Film Festival 2012 as it was advertised in Terracotta programme booklet.

Basically, their staff refused to honour the 15% discount clearly offered in the booklet for the festival and charged our credit card the full amount, saying they'd not heard of the offer. When we complained and asked to speak to someone more senior, the two waitresses working claimed they could not reach the manager and had no way of refunding credit cards. They stated they’d be happy to refund us if we’d paid cash but couldn’t do so for a card payment, despite my husband offering to show them how a refund is done on the card machine. Whilst the £6 in question isn't a huge deal, it was the conduct of the staff charging us which really annoyed us. The two waitresses were smirking and giggling while talking to us and didn’t handle the matter with professionalism. They also showed us a number of leaflets for other offers, which had nothing to do with the matter at hand in an attempt to change the subject.

Most importantly food wasn’t up to the standard we had hoped for. That, combined with the poor service from their staff was a huge disappointment. We ordered ma po tofu, marinated chicken slices in spicy sauce and boiled fish slices in extremely spicy soup. All the dishes were bland and the spicy soup had no kick to it. We expected spicy soup to be served hot and not luke warm. The chicken slices were more chicken skin than meat.

When we entered the restaurant there were set menus referred to on the windows but at no point were these offered as an option whilst we were inside. We initially thought the decoration was nice but after being brought to our table, we realised that the table cloths and wallpaper were stained. The leather seats for the tables along the walls were damaged and repaired with tape! We were asked to sit at a table for four in the middle of the restaurant, despite a smaller table for two being available. At no point was the restaurant busy, and by the time we finished our meal (4:30pm on a Sunday afternoon) we were the only ones in there aside from staff.

We asked to check the bill; they gave us a receipt displaying the total amount being charged with no mention of a service charge being included. Then I realised there was a small itemised bill below the receipt stating a 10% service charge was charged whether you liked it or not. When making our payment with the credit card we were handed the card machine to add a tip on top of the 10%!

Since this negative experience, we have confirmed with Joey Leung, the Terracotta Festival director, that the restaurant was well aware of the 15% discount offer and should have honoured it. He passed our details onto the restaurant manager but we have yet to hear anything from him/her, which is in keeping with the poor service we experienced at the time.

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By naa - Jan 23 2012
1/5

Well that has to be the worst eating experience of my life. Whoever thought to just tip of bowl of dried chillies into a flavourless thick brown sauce and call it food ought to be put in a straight jacket. Waiting staff surly and brought wrong food. A bill of £61 for inedible food was a bit steep. Awful, just don't even think of going there.

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By Alex - Nov 22 2011
4/5

Food was excellent with plenty of Sichuan spice! Service was as expected on a Monday night, attentive with the staff taking time to explain the dishes to us.
Overall we had a very pleasant experience.

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By Raj - Sep 14 2011
1/5

Had a bitter experience. Four of us went in there for dinner. Apparently, two of us already had dinner, so ordered appetizers only. The other two ordered main courses and after the food was served, the waitress came and told us that we would have to order a min. of £60 or £15 per head. This was not mentioned anywhere on the menu. We were nearly at £50, but protested at being forced to order - at this point the waitress disappeared and did not attend to our table until the end of the meal. We had to get our own bill.

The food was good, but the it was a Very bad experience. BEWARE!

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By Patrick - Sep 9 2011

Food excellent and authentic, and the service attentive and personable. We went for a couple of the more adventurous options on the menu which were delicious and somewhat cheaper than their more mainstream alternatives. It is however a tad pricey, which is why it isn't getting 5 stars. 2 starters, 2 mains with rice and a couple of beers came in at about £60 - I'm used to No. 10 at Earls court where the food is at least as good, and costs 1/2 the price. Would still highly recommend however.

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