Manson

Following the arrival of head chef Alan Stewart (ex-Chez Bruce and Launceston Place) in spring 2011, Manson has changed its menu from Modern European to British. The buzzwords 'seasonal' and 'local' actually mean something here, with summer berries, Kentish tomatoes, samphire and sea aster all making an appearance on our July visit, and the restaurant baking (very tasty) bread twice-daily, churning butter and doing its own butchering.

Produce comes from around the British Isles, as well as SW6 allotments. Simple but judicious flavour combinations are the result. A roundel of Devon Brown crabmeat topped with pickled cucumber, in a gazpacho-like chilled soup, made a fresh, light starter. Scottish girolles, mini potato dumplings and a rich but delicate smoked butter sauce matched well with wild black bream (crispy skin, moist flesh); top marks too for perfectly cooked Herdwick lamb with aubergine and courgettes.

A dessert of blackberries, frozen yoghurt and lemon curd was too plain, however. The room has a companionable, rustic feel, thanks to chunky wooden tables, industrial lamps and dark brown leather seating (including some cosy window booths). Young women in butcher's aprons provided cheery, helpful service. There's a good-value set lunch, plus Saturday brunch and Sunday roasts.