Oishii

Stokie locals have long enjoyed an enviable mix of restaurants on Church Street and Oishiii's owner, Atique Choudhury, has contributed more than his fair share to this variety, setting up Spices (Indian) in the late 1980s, Yum Yum (Thai) in 1992 and Mercado (Mexican) in 2006. At Oishiii, a dramatic colour scheme of red, white and black prevails throughout, from a glinting scarlet faux-granite counter to a blossom-on-the-branch mural.

The restaurant benefits from a great location. It also generates a good atmosphere. But despite its name (meaning 'delicious'), the food is merely okay. Orthodox, if not always authentic, the menu covers the staples. Gyoza are usually crescent shaped, but these were pinched square parcels, which would be no problem had the minced pork filling been less lumpy and more seasoned.

The deluxe sushi set was a simply good line-up of salmon, tuna, mackerel, prawn, squid and sea bass that formed a single file along a one-nigiri-wide plate. It was well shaped, served at the right temperature and would have been great value for money had the toppings not been meagre and a little dry, as if they'd been assembled then left standing around for a while.

A generous mound of mixed tempura included flavoursome prawns and tender squid, but oily batter marred this dish. So it was a pleasant surprise to get plain rice that was of particularly fine quality.

Service was attentive, but flawed - soon after arriving, three different members of staff enquired after our drinking needs in quick succession. None of these drawbacks is denting custom, though. 'Church Street's first Japanese eatery' may not be the best, but clearly there is an appetite for it; a daily half-price sushi 'happy hour' (5-7.30pm) probably helps. And if an Ozeki saké too far puts you in the mood to carouse, karaoke for up to 20 awaits in the basement.