Old Brewery

Tucked away in a corner of the magnificent Old Royal Naval College, this cavernous restaurant-cum-café occupies a former 18th-century brewhouse. It's probably best to avoid the packed-out, cosy bar on sunny afternoons; instead, sup from the choice of more than 50 ales (including those brewed by owners Meantime) in the popular walled courtyard.

Impressive floor-to-ceiling copper brewing tuns stand at one end of the restaurant but even these are overshadowed by the centrepiece: an undulating wave of suspended Meantime beer bottles. A painted potted history of British brewing adorns the maroon walls. Despite low lighting and comfortable booths, the echoing, high-ceilinged room feels intimate only when all tables are full.

The menu, which is heavy on meat and fish, changes seasonally. A generous portion of whitebait was perfectly spiced and well paired with the recommended Meantime Helles lager, but limp chips let down a fresh, flavoursome battered haddock.

Thai basil transformed a traditional eton mess, yet lukewarm poached apricots were one-dimensional and came with a bitter brandy-snap basket: all in all, a meal of highs and lows. Service was welcoming, but the quality of both food and service has veered from jaw-droppingly good to yawningly average on previous visits. This is a good local restaurant, nonetheless.