Bibendum

Bibendum resides on the first floor of one of the capital's foremost art nouveau structures. The Grade II-listed former UK headquarters of the Michelin Tyre Company - replete with ornate ironwork and stained-glass panels - makes a fai-lsafe good impression. The capacious dining room is drenched in light during the day, while around the clock an inebriated Michelin man presides, beseeching you that 'nunc est bibendum' ('now is the time to drink'). The blimpish mascot is emblazoned on the monumental arched window, and echoed in the bulbous curves of the glass tumblers.

The dining experience is exemplary, from the expertise of the front-of-house staff - a masterclass in professionalism - to the consistently accomplished food. Head chef Matthew Harris flits from British seaside (deep-fried haddock and chips) to Anatolia (spiced lamb koftas with fragrant rice) and beyond (sichuan beef salad). A starter of fritto misto di mare muddled scallops, baby squid and prawns in a melt-in-the-mouth batter. To follow, mullet fillet was served with a delicate cockle, chive and crème fraîche risotto.

Set menu lunches are exceptional value for this class of cooking. The ground-floor oyster bar is a popular stop-off in its own right, though we've had disappointing meals there in the past.