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Verru

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69 Marylebone Lane, W1U 2PH Full details & map

Restaurants & cafés: Modern European

 

Time Out says   5 Users say 5/5 Rate it

Posted: Dec 21 2010

A lot of money's been spent on redesigning this tiny, oddly shaped restaurant to distract from its awkwardly long and small rooms. You may have to participate in the 'excuse me, excuse me' dance to get past the waiting staff to your table, as we did. We were ushered down the stairs to the little back room, where we could watch staff practising their corridor capoeira on each other.

The solidly built good looks of the place - bare brick, engraved mirrors, parquet - are a strong clue that Verru has aspirations. Chef/owner Andrei Lesment is Estonian, and many of the other staff have Eastern European accents; the piped music was Edith Piaf. The menu's Modern European, but consciously uses ingredients of northern provenance, a sort of Baltic-French collaboration.

Icelandic cod was a smallish portion for a main course costing £16.50, but the flesh was firm and attractively seared on one side. Colourful garnishes included little melon-scoops of courgette and a mussel shell, for effect. Venison meatballs had a stronger, gamier flavour than their pork or veal cousins, tender and moist, the plate garnished with a yellow blob of pureed sweet potato, baby carrots and swiss chard.

Desserts include appealing combinations such as elderflower cheesecake with poached rhubard, or a slab of dark chocolate with more of that plate-blobbing embellishment.

The cooking at Verru is nowhere near as good as places such as Pied à Terre or Maze, where Lesment has previously worked, but then prices - lthough far from cheap - are also much more modest.

Tellingly, the service was still lacking confidence and initiative on our visit; the fire alarm went off twice, very loudly, but no apology or explanation was offered.

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Verru details

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Address

Verru

69 Marylebone Lane W1U 2PH

Transport Bond Street tube

Telephone

020 7935 0858

Verru website

Open noon-3pm, 6-10.30pm daily

Meal for two with wine and service: around £95

Verru map

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Comments & ratings 5/5 (Average of 5 ratings)

By TFB - Sep 19 2011
5/5

Absolutely delicious food, very fresh with interesting preparations. I found the service quite pleasant. A great value for brunch as well.

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By Jen - Sep 10 2011
5/5

This is the best meal we have had in London for a while, and eat out far more often than we should so it is a balanced comment! I have unresevervedly recommended it and all takers have come back with equally rave reviews.

The owner is also the chef and you can certianly tell by the dedication and heart applied to each dish.

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By Jessica - Aug 24 2011
5/5

I have been to lunch here twice this week - the second time because I enjoyed the first so much. Excellent food and service, in a lovely intimate surround - I can highly recommend.

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By David - Aug 6 2011

Thank you very much for your hospitality Verru. I must say that the food was absolutely fantastic!! My regret was that I couldn't try every single dish!! The Scallops with chicken oysters was exceptional very tender and full of flavors, the beef and Lamb especially could have been cut with a spoon! Amazing food! The desert was also exceptional in both presentation and taste! The different levels of tanginess in the apple and rhubarb pudding dish was very impressive, not to mention the bitter sweet balance achieved in the chocolate and macadamia nut - again fantastic!

There was also something else in between dishes; I think maybe smoked foie grass between two chips if I can remember? I can only describe this as a Subaru impreza wrx! Or maybe a roller caster! :-) The flavors seemed to change and amplify and get more intense the longer it stayed in my mouth.

A brilliant evening, with great food, an intimate atmosphere and great service!

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By Mishka - Jul 5 2011
5/5

We live nearby and have often wandered past this place and toyed with the idea of going in. Not sure why we haven't until recently (maybe something about the front looks a little uninviting?). The recently added outside table helps. Of course now I'm sorry it's taken us so long, as this place is seriously good!

To be honest, we were tempted by the exceedingly good value deal that's on at the moment - 2 courses for 11.95. This is one of the best value deals in W1. Not just because it's cheap, but it such excellent food.

I had a gorgeous and vey well balanced fig, truffle and soft cheese salad which was terrific and then a simple, but lovely entrecote. J had pork belly with an interesting berry that I'd not come across before - tart and a bit spicy and really gorgeous. J's cod was fresh, moist and flavoursome.

The staff are delightful and very attentive. I'm sure this super-dooper special deal won't last long - and to be fair it shouldn't - food this good is definitely worth paying for.

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By Will River - Feb 26 2011
4/5

Verru is the latest addition to the clutch of Scandinavian restaurants around London. Nestled in the West End just off Marylebone High Street, Verru has ambition and easily situates itself at the high end of the scale along with Baltic.

Friendly and helpful staff who were always on hand to assist, ushered us, whilst taking jackets, to our table for two in the lower room that is an elegant den of comfort.

The wine selection takes in both old and new world wines and it’s nice to see a pan European selection of wines and not just the usual selection from Romance language speaking countries. And this is just one of the nice little touches that Verru uses, another being the small granite tablets that knobs of butter are served on. One gets the feeling that nothing has been left to chance at Verru.

The food menu has an aquatic accent but this doesn’t preclude a large variety of food sources being used in interesting and traditional ways. Tastes are delicate but strongly defined. The Pork fell away from the bone with succulent ease and it’s piquant flavors mixed well with the side of Dauphinoise potatoes.

Whilst not being cheap, around £40 per head, Verru does constitute good value considering the level of craft, care and quality that goes into the dishes and the dining experience as a whole. Verru assumes high-end introduction to flavors from the Baltic region in the West End of London.

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