Chabrot Bistrot d'Amis

The titular 'amis' in this intimate new bistro are restaurant aristocracy. It's therefore surprising to discover a low-key, informal operation, hidden away in what most would call an alley, but in Knightsbridge is a 'green'.

Head chef is Thierry Laborde, formerly of Le Gavroche and Louis XV in Paris; running front-of-house is Yann Chavris, who has Nahm, Nobu and L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon on his CV; the wine list was assembled by renowned sommelier Philippe Messy. It's clearly a labour of love, and what's more, it's possible to eat well here for not too much money.

In both look and atmosphere, Chabrot is unrestrainedly Gallic. A heavy curtain shields the doorway. Dark walls hold large wooden mirrors adorned with details of prix formules. Close tables are covered with tea-towel tablecloths and sparkling cutlery. Aged brandies adorn shelves around the room. We even detected 'Je t'aime… moi non plus' moaning away above the convivial hubbub. Smart and cordial waiters ferry plates of snails, fine de claire oysters and bone marrow to the Francophone diners.

If this degree of Frenchness could be concentrated and freeze-dried, Café Rouge would be buying it by the pallet-load; unfortunately for them, such levels of insouciant bonhomie is only attainable by those from L'Hexagone.

The menu isn't groundbreaking, covering bistro classics with a lean towards south-west France, but the attention to detail and small touches elevate it. Bread was exceptional. A cold hors d'oeuvre of marinated mackerel was three dainty squares of fillet with grapes and croûtons. Another of charcuterie was a generous selection that included rillettes, jesus du pays basque, garlicky saucisson and earthy andouille (thinly sliced sausage made mostly from pig's intestines).

From a list of specials we chose monkfish 'cassoulet', a deconstructed and fancified version with a slice of fish topped with chorizo perched on a scoop of white beans and tomato sauce; from the same source came a perfectly cooked skirt steak, simply dressed with shallots and accompanied by thin-cut chips and mustard.

The wine offer keeps to one page, but, unsurprisingly, makes pleasant reading. Connoisseurs will spot the prestige French bottles that cluster around the high end of the carte, but everything remains sensibly priced and there's a good choice by the glass and carafe too.

The appeal for most here will be the prix formule: £15.50 gets you the plat du jour plus a glass of house red or white; add £2 and you'll get a coffee and small dessert.