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Fast-food chain Leon currently has ten branchs in London, including this one slap-bang in the heart of Soho. Grab a meal and watch Old Compton Street's flamboyant fauna parade in front of the big windows. If you prefer some quieter entertainment, hide downstairs in the basement, where hundreds of cookery books wait to be devoured.
Leon prides itself on using sustainably sourced ingredients in its (mostly) healthy dishes. Grilled chicken salad was highly satisfying, the moist, chargrilled meat resting on a bed of crunchy salad leaves. Moroccan meatballs were flavourful, but refused to reveal the slightest hint of Moorish spices. And our hearts sunk when presented with the fish finger wrap; the barely discernible thin, mushy fish strip was sadly snuggled against a few lonely salad leaves - all wrapped in layers of dry tortilla. Compensation arrived, however, with pudding: a superb chewy orange chocolate brownie.
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What is 'following'?020 7434 1200
Meals served 11am-11pm Mon-Thur, Sun; 11am-1am Fri, Sat
Main courses £3.95-£6.75. Set dinner (6pm-close Mon-Sat) £27.50 2 courses (2 people)
Facilities
Tables outdoors ( 4, pavement ), Babies and children welcome ( children's menu; high chairs; nappy-changing facilities ), Separate room for parties ( seats 50 ), Disabled ( toilet ), Takeaway serviceI find the Leon story really sad. I remember when they opened up (around 2004?) and when they were building the brand, they used to serve delicious and generous meals that were value for money. The rustic aesthetic was charming and they had a clear concept of what their food should be - fresh, tasty, healthy. For instance, the chicken in aoli in a box was substantial with real pieces of chicken and delicious seeds and herbs in the rice.
Over the years, the brand has been glossed up and the chain extended. But the food has become a god-awful con. In the words of that great Jewish joke 'such terrible food and such small portions'. The price has ratcheted up and the boxes have shrunk. All the expensive ingredients have been substituted or removed. The chicken is now that horrible remoulded stuff that you see in slices at sandwich bars all over the capital. The expensive seeds and herbs have dwindled and been replaced by stacks of cheap peas. All the sauces taste like they are out of a vat.
Foolish people are easily parted from their cash because for them, image matters more than taste. The Leon's I see are always busy. It's a normal trajectory for a fast food chain, but where places like Wagamama's have succeeded is that they have scaled their business and controlled costs without too great a sacrifice in quality.
I wanted a quick supper before watching a film. I ordered their 'super foods salad' with a side and a drink for just under a tenner. The lemonade was delicious, the corn fine, but the salad was made up largely of peas. It was a huge dissapointment.
I'll never go back to a leon again.
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