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Bistro du Vin

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38-42 St John Street, EC1M 4AY Full details & map

Bistro: French

 

Time Out says   2 Users say 2/5 Rate it

Posted: Apr 13 2011

The Hotel du Vin chain built its reputation in the late '90s, and is acclaimed as a bijou collection of tasteful boutique hotels in prime locations. It combines comfortable rooms with the guarantee of good cooking and a great wine list - no mean feat in Tunbridge Wells, or even Brighton.

This Bistro du Vin in Clerkenwell is a spin-off of the ever-expanding company, sans the hotel rooms. Yet it's still recognisably HdV: a British aesthetic with an Anglo-French menu that's good but not too challenging.

The group's wine list is now masterminded by Ronan Sayburn, one of the country's top sommeliers, and both the price-conscious and the wine nerds will find much to enjoy on this list. There's even a self-service wine dispenser in the bar area, a mini-version of those card-operated dispensers you now find in several London off-licences and wine bars.

Heavy investment has been made in kitchen equipment, such as the Josper grill which seared our small onglet steak. The accompanying fries were thin and crisp, everything present and correct.

Black bream was also nicely cooked, served with robust cuts of tender fennel bulb. Seafood and meat dominate the menu, with few choices if you're vegetarian. Side orders include roasted beef bones, cleft to allow the perfectly gelatinous marrow to be scooped out with a spoon.

The main courses were better than the starters. A tough pastry base was topped with anchovies then large portions of sliced but almost raw and mealy-textured tomato. A dish to showcase these fruit would work better if the tomatoes were in their summer prime, which - it being spring - they were not.

A disc of Cornish crab was a better choice, moulded to resemble a rice cake at first glance, but tasting reassuringly fresh and of the sea.

Many aspects of the Bistro du Vin are impressive. The service was faultlessly efficient on our visit, the wine list excellent, and it's a good-looking place which tries to cater
for a range of occasions, from the business meeting (there's a private room styled as the 'chef's table') to people just popping in for a glass of wine.

With a menu dominated by steaks, and safe options such as foie gras and liver parfait, lobster bisque or chopped chicken salad, it's not exactly at the culinary cutting edge.

But Eastside Inn, the innovative, acclaimed but expensive restaurant that preceded it on this site, lasted barely 16 months. Bistro du Vin looks likely to be filling glasses for much longer.

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Bistro du Vin details

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Address

Bistro du Vin

38-42 St John Street EC1M 4AY

Transport Farringdon tube/rail

Telephone

020 7490 9230

Bistro du Vin website

Open Noon-2.30pm, 5-10.30pm Mon-Fri; 9am-11am, noon-3pm, 6-10.30pm Sat; 9am-4pm, 6-10pm Sun

Meal for two with wine and service: around £100

Bistro du Vin map

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Comments & ratings 2/5 (Average of 2 ratings)

By Michael - Nov 2 2011
1/5

Used to love the Eastside Inn that used to be on this site so thought I would try Bistro du Vin. Two of us paid £140 on wine so we are not too price sensitive. Ambience very good, food Ok, however, service terrible. My friend ordered steak and chips (£15) and the waitress effectively told her is was rubbish and started upselling eventually convincing her to order a filet (£35). After the meal my friend asked for some chocolats, she meant some petit fours, the waiter said he would see what he could do and eventually turned up with a chocolate cheese cake from the pudding menu. Charmless service and a feeling they are trying to squeeze as much money as possible from you. Not going back, plenty of more honest restaurants around that area. Try Hix.

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By Evelyn - Sep 18 2011

We went bistro Du Vin Last Friday. It was a special occasion as we celebrated my boyfriend`s graduation. Just wanted to say Thank you Very Much!!! Our experience with Bistro Du Vin is unforgettable. We will certainly make use of your wonderful hospitality again. Polish waitress Alexandra was absolutely a star. Her professionalism was greatly appreciated and she is a credit to Bisto Du Vin.

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By Graeme Hastings - Jul 18 2011
2/5

Last Friday I went in a group of 6. We started in the bar area where there was an excellent choice of wines, beers and spirits. Service was fine although the barman did forget one of my fellow diner's drinks. Then, two drinks ordered as we were moved to our table didn't arrive and were chased up several times - and this is when the problems started. The breads came over and were very nice, especially the fruit bread, except they were taken away before we had finished. When asked to bring them back (3 different times) we never received the bread we had requested. It was early so the place wasn’t busy although it has quite a buzz because of the central open kitchen. We seemed to be asked by several staff if we were ready to order despite us all clearly still reviewing the menus. When I asked a waiter whether the toilets were through a door at the rear, he looked confused, then went through the door to check! Had he just started working there? Communication problems with the staff seemed to be the theme of the night with most speaking English as a second language. Our Italian waitress was nice but not very experienced and also struggled to understand us. What of the food? Very nice. The foie gras parfait I had to start was excellent. The moules were also very good. However, the steaks were slightly disappointing. At the price level, you expect Gaucho / Goodman quality and taste. Alas this wasn’t the case. My bone-in sirloin was quality angus but lacked the expected flavour. Two of my fellow diners ordered Ribeye steaks. When they came out, one was a nice thick steak, the other very thin. When one diner asked why this was, the waitress said because the other diner had ordered a better ribeye – but there was only one on the menu! Side dishes turned up (more than we ordered in fact). Desserts were nice although I think the profiteroles would have been much nicer with cream rather than ice cream. Then the next problem was the after-dinner whiskies. My friend ordered a large Jameson’s with ice. I orders a Glenlivet Nadurra and asked for a small jug of water. When they came (a while later – we had to wait a lot for drinks), my whisky came with a glass of ice on the side. I asked for some water for it. The waitress asked if I wanted still or sparkling. She then came over with a bottle of mineral water and started pouring it in my water glass. She just didn’t understand it and you don’t expect this with a £55 service charge on its way. My friend’s whisky turned out to be a blended scotch so he had to send that back (the barman came out and was very apologetic blaming it on misinformation from the waitress). The bill came to over £550 for 6. So comparable to Gaucho but with service nowhere near its level. The staff seemed inexperienced and unable to cope well in a fairly quiet restaurant. I wouldn’t go back which is a shame as I thought it had bags of promise. This is the site of the old Vic Naylor’s and I still think it is a great pity that ever closed.

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