Atari-ya

The restaurant previously on this site, Sushi-Hiro, was a destination for sashimi and sushi seekers, many travelling a long way for the experience.

After a change in management it still serves little other than impeccably fresh fish, perfectly seasoned rice and seaweed.

Atari-Ya (a Londonwide chain supplying many restaurants) has always provided the fish here, but now has bought out this long-established restaurant. It is the newest of a small but growing chain - the others are in Hendon, Swiss Cottage and James Street in Marylebone.

Since this change in ownership, the bright single room feels distinctly more welcoming. The frosted glass frontage has been replaced with a clear one, so you can peer in. The same sushi chefs operate behind the bar. The same bizarrely early opening times are still in operation, but unlike before, it feels as though the staff actually want your custom.

Order a drink and it arrives with a tiny amuse-bouche - tender octopus tendrils and pickled ginger, perhaps, or morsels of tuna in jelly.

Other than the considerable draw of the raw seafood, each day specials are tacked up on the board behind the chefs. We've worked our way through these on recent visits, and sampled a delicacy of flavour that is usually only found in much higher rent (and therefore more expensive) venues. Orders are placed on a paper checklist, Tippexed out from the previous customer.

Creamy, fresh cold tofu came seasoned with sesame and ponzu. Every variety of seaweed we've tasted here - served plain or in vinegar - had the right slippery crunch and not too much funk of sea; hijiki had just enough mirin to give it an edge.

A meal here is a pure delight. It is one of few sushi bars that serves such quality, especially for the price. Book ahead, because the few tables fill up fast (though individuals can often find a spare seat at the sushi bar).