Boisdale Canary Wharf

'The largest restaurant in Canary Wharf' might sound like a threat to some, but 'the largest whisky collection in the world' is much more of an inducement to visit. These claims refer to the new Boisdale, which occupies what may be some of the most expensive commercial space in London: two floors overlooking Cabot Square.

Boisdale is owned by Ranald Macdonald, son of the twenty-fourth chief of Clanranald, which can apparently trace their lineage back to the twelfth-century Inner Hebrides. This restaurant is his third, after the original in Belgravia and another in Bishopsgate.

All three are Scottish themed, as you'd expect, but with a twist you might not: they host live jazz, soul and blues every night. This is a surprising combination - 'Kind of Blue' doesn't sound quite so appealing on the bagpipes - but there are proper gigs on nightly.

So the result is a curious mixture of Americana and Caledoniana. Tartan is strewn around like the day after Culloden, and on the walls hunting trophies and gilt-framed Landseer-style landscapes share space with portraits of iconic US musicians - (See You Jimmy) Hendrix, (Fat Boab) Dylan, (I Would Walk 500 Miles) Davis.

The food, like Rod Stewart, is only sort-of Scottish - it makes use of good Scottish ingredients, which isn't the same thing. There's an extensive steak section promising Aberdeenshire beef, and includes sirloins, rib-eyes and the unusual-sounding 'tornado'(tournedo) fillet. There's Loch Duart smoked salmon, haggis, and West Coast langoustines.

A two-course 'Jacobite menu' (bit of politics there) offers decent value at £19.75, but everything else is expensive. A starter of scallops (£16.75) came with cauliflower purée and pea shoots, but the accompanying fried shallots were overpowering and not entirely necessary. A classic prawn cocktail had too much shredded onion in the Marie Rose mix.

Mains were better - roast chicken and rumbledethumps (a traditional Scottish dish of mashed potato, onion and cabbage) was reliable, but nothing we had would set the heather on fire. Other options include fish and chips, shepherd's pie, lobster and Dover sole.

What makes Boisdale worth a visit is the remarkable whisky menu. Just about every expression from every Scottish distillery, silent and active, in the last century seems to be represented here. Rare Lowland drams from St Magdalene and Rosebank are here, but fans of every region will find joy here. (Strangely, there are no Scottish beers at all.)

Boisdale seems perfectly placed - well-off Wharfers, who won't be deterred by the prices, will use it to entertain, and the please-all menu will cater for them well. The rest of us will be better off in the bar.