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Chef-proprietor Simon Rogan's occasionally wacky but always cutting-edge cooking at L'Enclume in Cumbria is well-regarded by food-lovers - including me, as I've gone out of my way to eat there, and been happy to give it repeat custom. Now the chef has opened his first branch in London, called Roganic.
Rogan's Marylebone restaurant is housed in a modestly sized place and is on just a two-year lease, which might explain the sparse furnishings - low-hanging steel lamps, splashes of modern art, 1970s-style fixtures. It's run by head chef Ben Spalding (previously cooking at L'Autre Pied and Rhodes W1), though it's overseen by Rogan.
The brave and adventurous modern menu - almost as eccentric as the one at L'Enclume - showcases off-beat home-grown and foraged produce. Expect such curiosities as heritage potatoes anointed with onion ash, lovage and leafy wood sorrel; and sweet cicely (a woodland herb with an anise-like flavour), partnered with strawberries, silky buttermilk and lemony verbena syrup.
Highlights in our meal of hits and misses were the less fussy dishes, most notably sweet glazed Kentish mackerel fillets drizzled with fragrant elderflower honey. We also loved meaty, tender Cumbrian hogget (lamb between one and two years old) and its musky partner of artichoke purée. An intensely fruity cherry soda coupled with a tingly strawberry-sherbet marshmallow was a beautifully nostalgic dessert.
On the downside, Roganic's menu seems over-crafted and is not as harmonious as that at L'Enclume. An excessively salty finger of brill, coated in reduced chicken stock mixed with crunchy salt, and an under-seasoned beetroot jelly matched with floppy curd, both missed the mark.
There's no denying the top quality produce and beautiful presentation. We must also make clear that we visited in the first week, when an unadvertised 25 per cent opening discount applied (an offer now finished): it's an admission that things were not quite as smooth as they could be. (Yet these prices - £80 a head - they should be flawless, first week or not.)
The friendly waiters know the menu inside out, effortlessly reeling off descriptive anecdotes on leafy native greens such as Chenopodium (the tasty, edible wild plant also known as fat hen). Had we been asked to provide constructive criticism, we'd suggest a simpler menu with a focus on subtlety and contrasting flavours.
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What is 'following'?020 7486 0380
Lunch served noon-2pm, dinner served 6-9pm Tue-Sat
Set lunch (Tue-Fri) £29 3 courses. Set meal £55 6 courses, £80 10 courses
Credit cards AmEx, MC, V
Facilities
Babies and children admitted, Booking advisable, Separate room for parties ( seats 10 ), Available for hire, Dress ( smart casual ), Vegetarian menuNot all that impressed. Mind you this is coming from someone who loves bold flavours and textures. The reason is the same as TimeOut's quibble - this young chef got carried away with trying to play Willy Wonka rather than create coherent things that will make you yearn for more mouthfuls of any given dish. Almost all courses way too salty, unchanged after I very politely mentioned it. Other times, the textures just weren't right. This funky newfangled crumble served with a plastic-tasting white ice cream was just unpleasant, oily-sticky and just unenjoyable.
The chef has promise and technique; he just needs to stuff the ego and make things that are enjoyable, rather than funky and photogenic (enough with the @&/%# micro greens already!!!)
There are no words............
Everyone must experience this.
I'll keep this concise. Based on a 10-course dinner last Tuesday night, here are the flaws, and then the applause.
Flaws: everything heavily salted (just that bit too much for comfort, and continued despite polite mention of this to the hostess); superfluous use of flower petals and micro-greens just for looks; textural variety is sorely lacking, it is mostly meat+sauce combinations; dramatically flavoured bites of food is a nice experience, but definitely doesn't leave you feeling like you'd want to eat more of any given course, which I think is important; terrible dessert (icky white choc sorbet with an icky "meadowsweet" crumble, hard-oily-sticky texture).
Applause: good flavour combinations including pork+eel croquettes, chicken salt+oyster juices, langoustines+berries; friendly staff; great breads.
While a good experience, I would rather have spent £80 elsewhere.
Loved every single bit of the place, cant wait to return.
I cannot believe the Time Out reviewer had sat in the same restaurant as the one I did as I found the food here totally amazing. Stunning flavours and presentation using many ingredients that were totally new to me bringing a welcome and fresh option to the London scene. Its a bit tight for space but thats not what this place is all about and the service staff are wonderful. Roganic, don't listen to the reviewer, please carry on with what you are doing!
I cannot disagree more. Beautifully crafted and original food and impeccable service. Some of the best food in London is being served here and I cannot wait to return
Totally agree with the review. In fact think it was on the generous side. I thought that this was a restaurant that had remembered that food should be interesting but had really forgotten that it should also taste nice.
The food is so brilliant that you barely notice the smooth, informality of the service. What a contrast to the pomposity of the Time Out review and what a breath of fresh air for London's slightly jaded dining scene. Oh, and an amazing wine list, perfectly matched to the food.
One of the most amazing dining experiences I've had - each dish packs a punch and the ingredients are unusual yet familiar. The service was faultless on the evening we visited. Good selection of wines by the glass help you mix and match throughout the varied 10 course menu. Just as we were leaving, we were told the menu would be changing again in 6 weeks. Damn. We'll have to go back.
Absolutely stunning meal, a massively unfair review me and my wife will be visiting again very soon.
What a well written review, I thoroughly enjoyed reading that.
Oh dear. After decades of subdued, beige dishes with the ever recurring list of five main ingredients in fine dining places like Roganic make me shout and sing with joy.
I had the same dishes as the reviewer and hope they stay as bold and interesting as they further evolve their menu. I'd be interested to see whether there are really conflicting views to what Roganic does or whether this is just a one-off sentiment.
Stunningly good. Impeccable service and food that will leave your tastebuds singing. We loved every minute of it and would definitely rush back.
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