Bountiful Cow

Describing itself as a 'a public house devoted to beef', this converted 1960s corner boozer nowadays looks more like a cocktail bar. A short row of smart stools face the counter; the rest of the seating is diner-style booths. Jocular film posters (cowboy movies, zombie flick Raw Meat) set the tone and get the carnivorous juices running.

The steak is good. We were delighted that our 11oz sirloin arrived on the bloody side of rare, with neat charred lines and accompanied by a little pot of béarnaise and chips. Unsurprisingly, few concessions are made to vegetarians on the very meat-heavy menu, but the £8.50 tomato bruschetta with capers and anchovies balanced by sweet piquillo peppers proved to be keenly priced - it arrived overlapping the plate. Puddings provide few surprises, but there's good drinking to be had: draught Dark Star Hophead, perhaps or a feisty pays d'oc merlot, available by the 500ml carafe.

The B-Cow was quiet on our Saturday night visit, but hooks in weekday business custom with a reliable set lunch (pork chop, macaroni cheese, corned beef hash) and early-dinner deal. Not a destination venue, then, but a solid performer.