Fish Fish

This spot, formerly known as the Lighthouse, may have reined back on its ambitious Black Sea-inspired menu, but it's a welcome source of reliable fish and chips and other seafood treats on the dreary Archway Road. Just stepping inside can put you in a holiday mood: there are cheerful hanging nets and lanterns, simple pine furniture, a long, shiny open kitchen and a tempting rear conservatory. Locals coming for takeaway lean on the counter and chat amicably with the friendly staff.

Battered haddock and cod with chips hit all the right notes; calamari rings were good too. 'Scallop terminator' (scallops and mussels in white wine and cream) didn't destroy the shellfish at all - they were cooked just-so - but more effort with presentation would be welcome. Chargrilled salmon was overdone, to our bitter disappointment: the huge portion was too smoky and dry - curious given the menu's promotion of this 'healthy living' cooking technique.

More attention to detail is evident in the choice of coffees and teas. Wines, such as our Esperanza merlot, may be readily available in big-name retailers, but Fish Fish's mark-ups are not offputting.