Côte

Côte's premise is to offer simple French bistro cooking at fair prices, but there are so many menus (carte, set, specials, children's, lunch rapide) that it all seems rather complicated. At least everybody is bound to find something to enjoy.

Unlike many French restaurants, vegetarians have a decent choice, and that's not the only advantage of dining at a chain such as this: staff are well drilled, groups accommodated, and the elderly and young families made comfortable.

Cooking ranges from not bad to very good. The crème caramel compares favourably to those of more esteemed kitchens, and fresh vegetables sang in a dish of buckwheat galettes stuffed with spinach and mushrooms then bathed in cream. Steak frites is reliably good, so too nibbles of fougasse bread with reblochon cheese, and the saucisson sec, but we found our fresh tuna niçoise a bit flat. Similarly, the most affordable wines are serviceable rather than special.

This Highgate Village branch has particularly good premises, including a huge decked terrace for semi-alfresco eating, and leafy views from the capacious front dining room. Worth a bit of a journey, then, though with 14 branches in London, it shouldn't be difficult to find a Côte near you.