Bellantoni's

Chef-proprietor Dario Bellantoni celebrates his love for Italian food and seasonal ingredients in the surroundings of the former Granville Arcade covered market. The cosy restaurant is split into two parts: on one side of the alley is the open-plan kitchen, on the other a little dining room - in between, tables are laid out in the passageway of the covered market.

The concise seasonal menu tempts with classic Italian dishes and Italian wines. A generous portion of traditional antipasti - a selection of cheeses including creamy chunks of burrata, several cold meats and sundried tomatoes and olives - was plenty for two to share, and was served with rosemary bread.

We enjoyed a pumpkin, truffle and scamorza starter - the slight sweetness of the crushed pumpkin harmonised well with the smoky cheese. The dish came with slivers of truffle salamino - a thin salami with pungent truffle tones.

If you're hungry, head straight for the pasta dishes - at £5 a pop, they're really good value. The pasta in the ricotta and spinach lasagna was own-made, but the sheets were a tad too thick, and the dish ended up with a chewy texture.

Better were the maccheroni with red cabbage - a proper winter warmer, combining the earthy flavours of red cabbage with a thick tomato sauce and gratinated mozzarella.

The menu also includes fish and meat dishes, which hover around the £13 mark. On our visit there was grilled swordfish with roast pumpkin and spicy tomato and chorizo stew.

The dessert selection was limited to two options. We chose the apple and cinnamon tart over a banana and chocolate tart - both served with a dollop of mascarpone and an intriguing spoonful of guava jelly. The covered apple tart - which resembled a flat pie - was nicely spiced, but we would have preferred the pastry to be warmed before serving.

Bellantoni's always seems popular, so during the winter months when the market's passageway is cold, it is advisable to book a table in the (warmer) dining room.