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Union Jacks

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4 Central St Giles Piazza, 1 St Giles High Street, WC2H 8LE Full details & map

Pizzeria: British

 
Union Jacks Union Jacks

Time Out says   15 Users say 3/5 Rate it

Posted: Nov 23 2011

When you eat at a Jamie Oliver restaurant, you're also fed the lifestyle. In the case of this new pizzeria, it's younger, cheaper, and even livelier (ie noisier, be warned) than his previous restaurants - the special-occasion Fifteen, the mid-priced Jamie's Italian, the City barbecue Barbecoa.

Union Jacks is more on-the-hoof, more spontaneous. The colour palette uses co-ordinated pastels like a Disney cartoon, indie guitar bands play over the sound system, knitted tea cosies cover the teapots.

The detailing is impressive, from the cutesy stickers on the (brand new) school-type furniture to the ironic use of kitsch leatherette menu jackets.

Union Jacks is a 'concept', and a very slick one, with a second branch in Chiswick already in the pipeline, and a third planned for Gatwick Airport in June 2012. If it wasn't all done so very well - cheeky chappie service with a smile, good food, fun atmosphere - you'd have to hate it.

But the fact is, Oliver's team has created a really good pizzeria, as well as a guilty pleasure.

Despite claiming that its main dishes are 'flatbreads', these are pizzas, albeit with some interesting toppings.

Jamie's Italian seems aimed at the suburban, middle-income, mortgaged diner who doesn't mind chain restaurants; Union Jacks is lower spend, but also for people who don't mind a pizza chain in the making; too cool for Oxford Street, but not cool enough for Dalston.

Oliver's army of helpers has collaborated with US chef Chris Bianco, lauded as one of the top pizza makers in the States. Bianco was there on our visit, working at the searing-hot wood-fired ovens and checking that the sourdough bases were coming out crisp and even. On both of our visits the bases were very slightly too burnt for our tastes, but if you don't like the way they're done, you can always send 'em back.

Oliver's influence is clear in the choice of ingredients - many of them British, with their provenance clearly spelled out. The fish used in the own-made fish fingers starter was not only fresh and good quality, it was also 'by-catch' - nice one Jamie.

The combinations are creative, without straying into 'sashimi with hoi sin sauce' territory. The Gloucester Old Spot pizza included morsels of crackling, quince purée, slivers of raw apple, stinky Stilton and watercress; it worked.

The 'Chilli Freak' was indeed as hot as our waiter warned us, and the accompanying little tumbler of goat's curd with lemon zest was a welcome palliative. (Opinion was divided on having fresh mint as well on the same base.)

Sardines are used to substitute anchovies in one classic combo; we missed the latter's salty relish, but the fennel and onions were good complements.

In the mood for pud? There's ice-cream and lots of it, including a sublime Earl Grey and shortbread version, only £1.50 a scoop; do try it. Arctic roll has been revived from the permafrost of the 1970s TV dinner; leave this one to the nostalgic, as the straightforward ice-cream scoops were better.

Jamie fans looking for tie-ins to his recent TV series, 'Jamie's Great Britain', might be disappointed that the flag-flying name of this new restaurant bears little relationship to the show or the book of the same name.

There is no Vietnamese street food, no Yemeni recipes from Wales, or Iranian lamb shanks. There is, however, smoked trout - the Jewish recipe from Leeds as seen on TV, served up with mini Yorkshire puddings, an unusual but appetising starter.

The TV tie-in recipe book is now available in all good bookstores - ah yes, Oliver's army doesn't miss the opportunity for a bit of cross-promotion. We just wish they'd call this place what it is: a pizzeria. And, schools reformer that Jamie Oliver is, maybe learn what an apostrophe is for.

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Union Jacks details

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Address

Union Jacks

4 Central St Giles Piazza, 1 St Giles High Street WC2H 8LE

Transport Tottenham Court Road tube

Telephone

020 3597 7888

Union Jacks website

Open noon-11pm Mon-Sat; noon-10pm Sun

Main courses £7-£12.50. Meal for two with wine and service: around £45

Credit cards AmEx, MC, V

Facilities

Tables outdoors ( 25, courtyard ), Babies and children welcome ( children's menu; high chairs; nappy-changing facilities ), Available for hire ( mezzanine ), Disabled ( toilet ), Takeaway service

Union Jacks map

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Comments & ratings 3/5 (Average of 15 ratings)

By Bevis - Mar 23 2012
3/5

An enjoyable evening here. The pizza flatbreads were tasty, the Red Ox pizza a combination of the obvious with watercress, Red Leicester cheese and horseradish. Service was decent, and no more/less attentive than say a Pizza Express, final bill for two people, two pizzas, and two drinks was £29 with tip. Nice decor inside, and some decent music over the speakers.

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By Aidan - Mar 18 2012
1/5

Nice starters but pizzas start off ok but by the third bite become dry and tasteless. Service is shockingly bad. A five minute wait between the first pizza arriving and the last. Couldn't even bring six scoops of ice cream at the same time.

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By Ben - Feb 24 2012
2/5

The flatbread pizza we had was dry and was blackened. Although I expect this in part for a stonebacked style pizza, I do expect it to be edible. The earl grey tea ice cream wasn't particularly nice, although the Snikers version was. I wouldn't hurry back to this restaurant and fear it could become even further diluted in quality, taste and presentation as it is rolled out across the country, not disimilar to the way Jamies Italian is heading when you compare the current restaurant to the origional in Oxford.

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By Jane morrison - Feb 23 2012
2/5

There are better pizza places in London. It's over priced with small starter portions and a measly amount of ingredients on the "flats". My fellow diner complained there was no meat on his old spot flat.
If you like traditional English treacle tart don't try this one it's more like a flapjack - my two friends were v disappointed.
The staffing needs sorting as we has 3 different staff serve us during our meal as we watched eat one put their coat on and go home! We won't be going back.

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By Chris Gossling - Jan 24 2012

Very strange dining experience. Started off well, cocktails delicious, pork flatbreads very disappointing, no topping to speak of, dry cold crackling -yuk.
Icecreams ok, but was it worth over £100 for four drinks, four flatbreads mostly left because of the dry consistency and reasonable icecreams. I dont think so - over to you Jamie and your promise to serve imaginative English cruisine with a difference

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By CHRIS - Jan 21 2012
3/5

Well it was OK. We enjoyed the experience but will not be returning as the menu is limited. A few starters and half a dozen pizza options. We were heading to another restaurant when we saw this and thought we would give it a try. In all honesty we should have kept going because it was hard to find something that everyone liked. Fifteen is a lot better.

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By LR - Dec 15 2011

Loved my Woodman pizza - gorgeous, crisp-yet-chewy base and just the right amount of good quality, flavoursome toppings. As for the daft "flatbread" tag - Jamie, what were you THINKING? Talk about a massive marketing misfire. After all, have you ever heard anyone say, "I fancy going for flatbread tonight"? Probably not. That aside, the service is efficient and attentive, and while the price of the wine (British) might trigger a sharp intake of breath, it's a lot of fun - particularly if you're partial to a blast of Kim Wilde or Spandau Ballet while chomping on your pizza. Yes, I said PIZZA.

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By Rich - Dec 15 2011

Starters were great, it's almost a shame that the main courses don't follow the same theme? I was a bit non-plussed by the 'flatbreads', you can get much nicer pizzas elsewhere for cheaper. Liked the buzzing atmosphere and deffo worth a visit, i won't be rushing back though.

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By Rob B - Dec 9 2011
3/5

Interesting & tasty starters, but the "flatbreads" were disappointing despite their appealing ingredients - i'd rather have a pizza at Zizzi's opposite. The Covent Garden branch will no doubt do alright due to its location, but will the Chiswick branch be able to attract repeat custom?

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Shalinee Singh
By Shalinee - Dec 7 2011
3/5

Generally a good experience, though our beetroot and curd starter was whisked away before we'd finished it and our pizza was definitely MUCH lighter on toppings than the picture above. A few shreds of (very tasty) oxtail and brisket nearly two inches of crust. That said, what a fine crust it was. Unfortunately I think something sugary caught on a pan somewhere while we were there as I left with my hair smelling like burnt caramel.

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By Jonny - Nov 30 2011
5/5

QUALITY! From the ground up. Great ingredients, great staff, well presented.
My whole experience had me leave with a smile on my face not only from the tasty food but the eclectic mix of music (80s and modern) and money left in my wallet.
This could be Jamie's best yet.

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By Em - Nov 28 2011
3/5

Food was yummy, not overly priced; Something different to try. Music is quite loud though.

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By DG - Nov 25 2011
3/5

Loud 80s music took me back to the 80s. As did the food. But this is 2011...
Nothing particularly wrong with the food, but nothing particularly interesting either. Ingredients may be all very English and ethical, but concepts are fine until the punters have had enough.
And the web-site seems to come from the 80s too - it might help to actually give an address for the restaurant. Just a thought.

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By Jim - Nov 21 2011
5/5

I was very very pleasantly surprised.

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By wincheap - Nov 21 2011
2/5

Oh dear - Union Jacks is 'all at sea'....a very over-enthusiastic waitress (who was very polite) managed on two occasions to 'swipe' our beer glasses before we had drained them. On the plus side the starters are inventive and a delight. I wish I could say the same for the main course. "Pizza-style" British food just doesn't work - and not at those prices - I would rather go to a pizza chain. And the food left all five of us groaning with indigestion. Better luck next time. I'll spend my money elsewhere - especially as the "ambient" music was definitely for the staff and not the punter!

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By laura - Nov 16 2011
5/5

amazing food, crackling on a pizza didnt think it would work but it totally did. loved the sign.

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