Potli

London's South Asian cafés are changing their looks, modernising and playing on Bollywood and pop culture themes - recent examples include Dishoom, Roti Chai and Delhi Grill. But despite the playful and fun interiors, they've wisely not messed around with classic dishes too much.

Potli - which means 'small pouch' - is much in the same vein. Warming to its food market theme, it's cheerfully furnished with wooden tables, nick-nacks and retro-style framed photographs contrasting with vibrant banquettes and cushions.

A sizeable bar ambitiously serves a roll-call of Asian-inspired cocktails and tropical drinks.

The menu criss-crosses India with numerous dishes. We acknowledge that India has lots to offer, but less can be more when creating a successful menu.

However, the chef does know his masala - and on our visit, delivered splendid renditions of diverse regional Indian specialties. Tender and yielding tilapia fillets made a light tease to supper. Cooked on a griddle and encased in gram flour spiced with garlic, lime and ginger, crackling curry leaves added a pleasing peppery addition.

The main courses were outstanding. Punjabi-style mutton curry, tender and cooked on the bone, had a rich tomato masala emboldened with meaty robustness and hits of shredded ginger. It was a hearty staple which would win the approval of the toughest of Indian truckers.

Five-lentil dahl from Rajasthan - like tarka dahl, but with more depth of flavour - was nutty tasting and seasoned with toasty-tasting cumin; a great combo when eaten with minted flaky parathas.

Southern and coastal flavours also get a look-in. Mirch ki salan, in this case yellow sweet peppers simmered in a pounded paste of toasted sesame, coconut and peanuts, was sharpened with curry leaves, and worked well with another southern classic, aromatic lemon rice.

Service typifies Indian hospitality and was attentive, waiting on every need. All the management needs to do is go a little easier on explaining 'the concept', as the traditional Indian cooking speaks for itself.