Colchis

The name of this new Notting Hill restaurant is ripe with classical reference. Colchis is the ancient name for the Black Sea coast that is now western Georgia. It was the destination of Jason and the Argonauts when they were seeking the Golden Fleece, and the place where Prometheus was said to have given mankind fire.

And, according to the Georgian legend, God took a supper break while creating the world, but tripped over the high peaks of the Caucasus mountains and spilled a full tray of foodstuffs. These celestial scraps gave rise to Georgian cuisine.

Georgians are known for their love of food and their hospitality, and the welcome and service at Colchis is every bit as warm as the cosseting surroundings (the ground floor below the first-floor Assaggi restaurant).

The food, too, largely lives up to the evocative name. Georgian classics, such as lobio (kidney bean stew, served with corn cakes), mtsvadi (skewered meats), khinkali (meat-stuffed dumplings) and khachapuri (cheese-stuffed bread) abound on the menu. The warm, soft, flaky flatbread that is khachapuri enclosing salty white cheeses - an excellent starter.

We couldn't resist a main course of pheasant, Georgia being this bird's native land (its zoological name is Phasianus colchicus). We weren't disappointed with the deep flavours of this slow-cooked, tomato-based braise, the game meat long-simmered and livened with handfuls of herbs. On the side were some moreish 'chips' made with the Georgian version of polenta, gomi.

Colchis's sophisticated version of the homely, slow-cooked meat dish chakhapuli, was made with shin of veal (it's often made with lamb or kid) and had been cooked in white wine and thyme then sprinkled with garlic and herbs, and served with a small bowl of pickled beetroot. Dessert, a disappointingly zingless lemon tart, was the only let-down dish.

European bottles dominate the wine list, but the few Georgian wines are worth a try (reds tend to be better than whites) and there are a few digestifs from the country too, should you feel the sudden urge to raise a toast or two to your dining companions, in the Georgian tradition. We can't think of a better place to celebrate Georgian food.