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Busan

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39 Holloway Road, N7 8JP Full details & map

Restaurant: Korean

 
© Rob Greig

Time Out says   8 Users say 4/5 Rate it

Posted: Dec 19 2011

To the delight of Holloway locals, this family-run Korean restaurant is back on the scene after it served its last bibimbap five years ago. Mr and Mrs Lee have re-opened Busan just a
few doors down from their original location.

The updated decor has a futuristic hint, with glossy tables and chairs and coloured lighting tempered with the addition of a large ink mural flanking one wall. The resurrection also sees the addition of a sushi and sashimi menu.

The main menu, unlike many we've encountered in London, has a poetic line or two explaining the dish; useful for newbies to Korean cuisine. We loved the description of the sundubu jijae (soft curdled tofu stew), the experience likened to 'eating a spicy cloud'. Indeed - the soft tofu curds were gloriously silky and light, suspended in a rich chilli- and seafood-spiked soup, mellowed by the addition of a sunny egg yolk.

Good, but not better, was a galbi tang (beef shortrib stew), a peppery, milky broth laced with slippery glass noodles, chunks of tender daikon radish and pieces of (not quite as tender) beef.

We appreciated that the barbecued galbi came with lettuce and doenjang (soy bean paste) for wrapping up the meat - most Korean restaurants in London charge extra for these - but the beef was again just a bit on the tough side. Hobak bokkeum (stir-fried courgette with sesame oil) came in generous portions, and was sweet and moreish.

Service demonstrated a solid sense of hospitality - commendable, as it seemed it was Mrs Lee who was singlehandedly working the room on our visit. Welcome back, Busan.

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Busan details

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Address

Busan

39 Holloway Road N7 8JP

Transport Highbury & Islington tube/rail

Telephone

020 7697 9889

Open noon-3pm, 6-11pm Mon, Wed-Sat; noon-3pm, 6-10.30pm Tue

Meal for two with drinks and service: around £45

Busan map

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Comments & ratings 4/5 (Average of 8 ratings)

By Tally and Gnomi - Apr 14 2012
5/5

Popped in on a whim - ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC! We've both lived in South East Asia and thought the food was gorgeous. We had the bugosi and the hot pot (called something else), both Korean dishes. Service was excellent - fast and friendly. In an area with so many quite good restaurants, it's great to find somewhere affordable with truly great food. Go here!

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By Ms Domestic - Apr 4 2012
4/5

We were regulars for many years and sorely missed the food and atmosphere. Now we are stunned by the aesthetic improvement (it was a bit dingy before), the food is as good as it was or perhaps even better and Mrs Lee is unbeatable as a hostess. Since it's reopening we've been back three times as a couple and three times with large groups (7, 16, 22) and our guests are always amazed at how good it is. The Busan is one of North London's best kept secrets and we for one are very happy that it is back on the scene.

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By Riasaakshi - Mar 2 2012
4/5

Absolutely lovely staff, the food was excellent (if probably a bit toned down for western palates). A good solid dependable Korean/Japanese - of which there are precious few in London hence I think three stars is very stingy considering I will be going back frequently.

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By kevin - Feb 9 2012
1/5

worst food ever. the place is nice itself but the waiter was not smiling and had troubles understanding us. I would not recommend it

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By Jason Tsang - Jan 30 2012
3/5

First impressions matter, unlike a lot of Korean restaurants, Busan puts effort into presentation. The first thing you noice is the decor, which is pleasing. How many Korean or Chinese restaurants have you been to, where decor is not even an afterthought? The menu itself is not that special, but it has what most people like. I really liked the "yuk-hoe", which is the Korean version of steak tartare. I've never eaten raw beef, but don't let the idea put you off, its not like anything you've tried before. I didn't try any of the japanese dishes, but I didn't go to a Korean restaurant for Japanese food. Price wise, Busan isn't cheap and on par with what the best in Angel would charge. I've eaten at quite a few Korean restaurants in London and whilst Busan might not be the best, it is far from the worst. I'll be back.

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By Neil C - Jan 20 2012
4/5

Bright and quicky decor, excellent food, great value, warm and friendly service - a very welcome addition to the rapidly improving Holloway Road food scene

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By Ashwin - Jan 8 2012

Good review. Tempted to visit. But if 'meal for two with drinks and service' comes to 45 pounds, maybe its time to readjust the pound sign rating? Surely 45 quid for 2 is 2 pound signs atleast?

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By islingtonfoodlover - Dec 22 2011
3/5

Very happy to have a korean restaurant in the neighbourhood! I liked my dolsot bibimbap although it was slightly oily.

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