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At first glance there isn't much to differentiate Ultimate from London's other posh burger joints. Food consists of the standard upmarket take on burgers, though with limited success. A huge bacon cheeseburger came with a big dollop of sweet barbecue sauce, which made it seem no less junky than its Burger King counterpart. It was tasty, though, and had the patty not been so dry (we weren't asked how we wanted it cooked), we might have been tempted to return for this guilty pleasure. Chips were better (fluffy inside, crunchy outside), though the portion was meagre. A dull side salad of cucumber and lettuce was lifted by a sharp dressing. The shop-unit space is bright and airy, and staff were pleasant, but this place needs to try harder to live up to its name. The two other branches closed last year, leaving this as the remaining outlet of what was once a chain.
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