Applebee's Café

Applebee's is generally busiest on market days, when Borough's food stalls bring Londoners and tourists flocking for high-quality comestibles. Once their hessian bags are bulging with top-notch produce, many of these shoppers head here in search of first-rate fish. Even when the market isn't in full swing, lunchtimes are lively, with a hotplate out front selling seafood wraps, and a full menu of fish dishes inside; vegetarian and meat options are non-existent.

With a mouthful of horseradish- and apple-crusted cod fillet, it's impossible not to pause conversation just to appreciate the culinary magic taking place on your tongue. Lobster and scallop ravioli in saffron sauce was equally diverting. It's a darkish, intimate space, with muddy-orange banquettes on one side facing the open kitchen on the other.

Waiting staff were relaxed to the point of inattentiveness, although they were friendly enough when they remembered to come over. More often, we had to wave to attract their attention.

Puddings were almost as good as the mains - a chocolate fondant oozed expertly, and raspberry and saffron crème brûlée delighted - so we trotted off happy and replete.