Kew Grill

Regrettably, the retro dishes here aren't accompanied by old-fashioned prices. We found the cooking lacklustre, and Kew Grill felt provincial and untouched by the creativity and passion of the best British restaurants. Take the bread: four types are offered; all are merely OK, rather than showing what the kitchen can do. The small, bare-brick room is made cosy with warm lighting and cushions. Staff are slightly too attentive (constantly asking if we were enjoying our meal). Portions are large. In descending order of enjoyment, the 6oz steak au poivre was the best dish, equalled by a crème brûlée. Specials of grilled goat's cheese with pine nuts, honey and mixed salad, followed by grilled sea bass fillets with crushed new potatoes, with brown shrimp and lemon butter were decent dishes. Cheese and bacon burger was so-so, and the chunky chips too dry (skinny chips were good). Avocado vinaigrette was overpowered by an oniony dressing, yet was nicer than spiced soft-shell crab on thai red curry sauce, which was mushy. Owner Antony Worrall Thompson has had to close some restaurants; after this meal we think we know why. A step back in time, but not in a good way.