Matsuri

The theme of this long-standing restaurant is matsuri ('festival' in Japanese), evidenced in subtle ways. A theatrical nebuta mask welcomes diners with its fierce expression, while the jovial chefs who work the teppan (flat steel grill) put on a good show.

The den-like space comes alive to the sound of the clanging and scraping of metal-on-metal as everything from premium steaks to asparagus spears and mounds of garlicky fried rice are prepared directly in front of a captivated audience of diners.

You can, of course, head to the separate sushi bar for well-crafted nigiri and sashimi if the mood for grilled food doesn't strike. A meal here isn't cheap, but there are set menus that don't skimp on quality or quantity; lunch is a good opportunity to sample Matsuri's menu for less.

We enjoyed the light touch of appetisers such as a cold vinegared crab salad, served in the shell, and a delicate dobin mushi: hot broth served in a teapot, featuring goodies such as prawns, bamboo shoot and fish cake.

Soft-spoken Japanese waitresses float in and out of the shadows with impressive efficiency. The clientele consists mainly of Mayfair businessmen, interspersed with the odd family, whose children never fail to be delighted by the theatrics of the 'fireball' ice-cream course.