Casa Madeira

The ever-expanding Madeira empire now boasts nine delis, cafés and restaurants, from Paddington to Stockwell. This is the biggest and smartest of the group, situated in an imposing railway arch off the Albert Embankment.

The menu encompasses tapas, grills, seafood and pizzas, helping the restaurant attract a varied post-work crowd on weekdays. On Sundays, it becomes a hub for the local Portuguese community, when the massive dining area is filled to capacity. We enjoyed the tapas-sized portions of sardines and lamb cutlets, both benefiting from a smoky blast from the charcoal grill. Octopus in paprika had a pleasant hit of chilli, but the flaming chouriço, set alight at our table, was a little too fatty. A main course of bacalhau con natas was Portuguese comfort cooking at its best: a heavenly combination of salt cod, cream and cheese, topped with toasted mashed potato.

The soundtrack of satellite TV is replaced by music at the weekend, when Portuguese DJs and bands rock up and Casa Madeira becomes the ideal place to linger over a Super Bock beer or two.