Chez Lindsay

Ditch the wine glasses in favour of bolées à cidre at this laid-back, sunny bistro specialising in Breton cuisine. A half-litre pichet of the house cider, an off-dry organic number from Normandy, was a good match for a big bowl of mussels (a popular choice, judging by the metal lids piling up around us).

There are meat and fish mains, several cooked with cider, but most fun is to be had with the buckwheat galettes. The edges of these savoury pancakes are tucked under to enclose a filling below as well as on top, such as creamy leeks with scallops, or melted cheese and ratatouille. The latter was offered on the weekend set menu, which, at over £20 for two courses, can work out steeper than the combined carte prices.

In contrast, the weekday prix-fixe lunch is a steal. Perhaps it was the effect of a double-pancake meal, but our crêpe, too light on chocolate sauce, fell flat. The fruit sorbets might have been a better bet.

Staff were cheerful and enthusiastic, some almost too much so; there are only so many times you can smile and nod when asked 'Ça va? C'est bon?'