Ciullosteria

Officially, the name of Ciullo's changed at the end of 2011 to the (even less catchy) Ciullosteria, following a change of management and very slight change of menu. Unofficially, almost nothing else has changed; they've not even bothered to change the huge neon sign outside that reads 'Ciullo's'. It is still a low-priced neighbourhood trat, best-known locally for its pizzas.

Concessions to modernity are few: a sudden interjection of sculpted design in the dessert plates; downlighters to boost tea lights set in candelabras. Yet the comforting, generously portioned dishes and warm service, set against a background of Italian repartee, are no more outdated or undesirable than the cheery Beryl Cook prints lining the walls. Toddlers tuck in happily alongside grandparents; groups of young Italians rub shoulders with evening shoppers.

Nothing startles on the menu: the seafood and meat dishes, pastas and pizzas are all variants of long-established combos. Our pasta was al dente but no challenge to dentures; the pizza crust was nicely charred and chewy; greenery included deep-fried battered courgettes; sorbet in a hollowed-out lemon was sit-up zesty; and decent coffee made a robust finale.

A half-bottle of the house wine was a low point; pay a little more for better. Leftovers are deftly packed up in microwave plastic or cardboard boxes to polish off at home (Ciullo's has a popular takeaway service). Locals no doubt wish the place many more years of service - whatever it's called.