© Rob Greig
Time Out rating:
Time Out says
Tue Oct 16 2012
Portuguese head chef Nuno Mendes works at a rarefied level of creativity that’s often associated with pomp, ego and stratospheric prices. Here, it’s all about the food – and exceptionally good value. The seating in the first of the restaurant’s two rooms is angled towards the open kitchen, allowing diners to view not Ramsayesque drama but a focused team clinically tooling morsels of food into sublime presentations.
There’s no choice on the menu: a series of appetisers followed by three, six or nine courses are delivered in due course by staff who act as gastronomic tour guides, personal hosts and high priests. For this food elicits reverence. It’s exploratory, disciplined and beautiful, stimulating both the mind and the senses. You might not like every dish, but some you will likely find revelatory.
The appetisers set out the stall with startling flavours and textures: potato with yeast, pancetta and olive powder; or amaranth with sorrel, for example. Main courses are more overtly conventional – meat or fish with accompaniments – but they’re intricately conceived: witness the sea bream with fennel and miso and caramel sauce, or strikingly pretty pluma (a Spanish pork cut served rare) with adobo and reconstructed tomatoes. Desserts (with a pre-dessert) return to the surprising-but-delicious theme: milk in several different molecular presentations, or jerusalem artichokes with chocolate soil and blood orange.
The setting, a former town hall, retains its formality despite modern ceiling art and retro references, and the atmosphere is quiet and foodily serious (don’t come for a raucous night out).
Viajante Patriot Square
020 7871 0461
- Opening hours:
Lunch served noon-2pm Fri-Sun. Dinner served 6-9pm Mon-Thur, Sun; 6-9.30pm Fri, Sat
Tube: Bethnal Green tube or Cambridge Heath rail
Set lunch £35 3 courses (£53 with wine), £65 6 courses (£115 with wine), £80 9 courses (£145 with wine). Set dinner £90 12 courses (£170 with wine)
- Patriot Square
- 020 7871 0461
- Patriot Square
Food and drink
Restaurant and bar facilities. Reservations required. Dinner. Accessible facilities. General facilities. Private rooms
Meal times. Best for dinner. Wow factor. Hip factor. Eating out. Celebrated chefs. Creative cooking. Unique. Unique London
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