Water House

Time Out says

Tue Sep 25 2012

In a dream location on Regent’s Canal, and with laudable aims – it’s a social enterprise and training restaurant – Water House hits the right notes on entry. The airy, light-filled space and waterside terrace make it feel modern, fresh and bright, much like the menu. The emphasis is Italian, with a tempting, seasonally led range of pasta and risotto dishes, including a pretty spring risotto with peas, broad beans and courgettes, and ravioli with courgettes and peas. But the young chefs don’t shy away from invention; a starter of chilli paneer on lemonade bread won points for its rich marmaladey sauce of tomato and lemon peel, while a soft-shelled crab was crunchy and delicate. Mains of lamb chops, steak and pan-fried duck breast were robust and generous, but overwrought sauces and marinades worked against the meats. Desserts too were a mixed bag; a chocolate fondant was oozily perfect, but ice-creams were too sweet. None of this detracts from a restaurant that has its heart in the right place and the kind of warm service that can’t be faulted, but prices (mains at £16, sides an extra £3.50) seem a bit steep for the starter-level cooking.