Yashin Sushi

Time Out says

Mon Jul 9 2012

In a discreet location just off Kensington High Street, Yashin has that modern eclectic look that’s currently so hip. Highlights include black rabbit-shaped lamps atop Victorian-style mouldings on the walls.

Behind the green-tiled sushi counter, a neon sign states ‘without soy sauce – but if you want to’, as the chefs disapprove of the salty sauce masking their sushi. Instead, the industrious throng of itamae (sushi chefs) finish their nigiri with a drizzle of truffle oil, a quick blast from a blowtorch or some other carefully considered garnish. And there’s plenty other than sushi sets to explore on the menu.

Our grouper ‘carpaccio’ saw the meaty fish beautifully balanced by tangy yuzu, a hint of chilli oil and pleasing little nuggets of toasted rice. An unusual eel and pineapple inside-out roll with a mango emulsion was an unexpected triumph, while the playful miso ‘cappuccino’ saw a satisfyingly complex miso soup arrive topped with tofu foam.

A meal at Yashin may not be cheap, but it’s an experience not to be missed – and we couldn’t fault the service either. The restaurant takes its wine seriously too, though you won’t find much under £30.