York & Albany
York and Albany
Ming Tang Evans
Time Out rating:
<strong>Rating: </strong>4/5
User ratings:
<strong>Rating: </strong>2/5
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Time Out says
Tue May 22 2012
This fine Georgian pile beside Regent’s Park may once have been a pub, but there’s not much pub-like about its current incarnation within the Gordon Ramsay organisation, housing a bar, restaurant, elegant ‘townhouse hotel’ and even an upmarket deli and takeaway pizza counter.
The bar area is delightfully airy, with seductively soft leather sofas for extended lounging over a cocktail; dining rooms, divided between a light space by a small patio and a tomb-like basement, are similarly mellow, featuring muted colours and antique details. In contrast, the menu retains an informal feel, with burgers and (apparently highly regarded) pizzas alongside more intricate dishes.
Rabbit ravioli with peas, bacon, marjoram and butter sauce was a difficult combination carried off to perfection, exuberantly rabbity and buttery; salmon ceviche with beetroot and avocado was deliciously refreshing. The same blend of subtle skills and rich flavour came through in our mains, a perfectly tender pork chop in cider gravy, and almost nutty-flavoured pollock with orecchiette pasta.
Service was charming and very obliging. In all, this was a comfortable and, yes, mellow experience: one Ramsay outlet providing quality at accessible prices.
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