• London's best food markets

  • By Charmaine Mok

  • Food markets are spreading over London like farmhouse butter on a slice of hot wholemeal toast. Time Out rounds up the best places for seasonal fruit and veg, artisan cheeses, small-batch preserves and humanely reared meats

    London's best food markets

    Vernal abundance at Cabbages and Frocks © Natalie Pecht

  • Berwick Street Market
    The vibe It lies between seedy Soho strip joints at one end and the elegant restaurant Yauatcha at the other. Bellows can be heard all  round from the stallholders, vying for the attention of the harried denizens of Soho.

    The history
    The market is one of London’s oldest, going back as far as 1778, when people started (illegally) displaying their wares on the pavement outside their shops. In 1883, the occupant of 101 Berwick Street had action taken against him by the vestry (church council) for ‘placing out baskets and boards containing vegetables’ and obstructing the street. It wasn’t until 1892 that the vestry officially recognised it as a proper market.

    What can you buy? Besides the usual fruit and veg, knick-knacks and knickers, there are flowers and fresh seafood.

    Caveat emptor? Berwick Street seems in steep decline –  sadly, the number of stalls in this once-bustling market has shrunk, and the quality of produce on sale is now usually sub-supermarket. Charmaine Mok
    Berwick Street Market, Berwick St, W1. Piccadilly Circus tube. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm.

    Whitecross Weekly Food Market

    The vibe There’s a jovial atmosphere here at lunchtimes, with young office workers from Clerkenwell and Hoxton mingling with burly construction workers from nearby development sites, united by their love for good grub.

    The history It started as a monthly food market in June 2007, and has garnered much praise – and has recently gone weekly.

    What can you buy? Eat your fill from the caravan of food vendors – the biggest queue by far was for Luardo’s Latin American street food (burritos, mainly), though there’s everything from Thai curries to bratwurst. There are also puds a-plenty – we loved charming Netty Poskitt’s stall selling tiny fairycakes in egg cartons.

    In season
    Last chance to get super sausages from Manor Farm Game – we spied pigeon and peach as well as pheasant and pear varieties.
    Caveat emptor? As a purely weekday operation now (the old monthly market was held on Saturday as well as Friday) it means only nearby workers and tourists will benefit. Win some, lose some. Charmaine Mok
    Whitecross Weekly Food Market, Whitecross Street, EC1Y (020 7378 0422/www.whitecrossstreetmarket.co.uk) Old St tube/rail. Open Thur-Fri 11am-5pm. Feature continues

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    Brixton Market
    The vibe With blue skies and shining sun, the reggae music pumping through the streets can make the huge, sprawling covered and open market feel miles from London.

    The history
    The market as we know it is thought to have originated as far back as the 1870s, though it really came into its own during the ’40s with the influx of Afro-Caribbean immigrants to post-war Britain, who used it as a community focal point.

    What can you buy?
    This is the best place in London to buy African and Caribbean produce, from custard apples to suya pepper (a spice mix for a popular Nigerian kebab-like meat dish), cassava, pig snouts and periwinkles – though there’s plenty for those seeking hair extensions, giant tubs of petroleum jelly or a bootleg copy of ‘Princess Tyra 3’.

    In season Fish is the thing to go for, from brightly red Jamaican tilapia to live catfish swimming happily in their tanks, whiskers twirling.

    Caveat emptor?
    Such a large market can be overwhelming for the novice shopper, so we’d suggest taking your time to talk to stallholders and get their advice. Most can chat up a storm while dispensing invaluable cooking tips. Charmaine Mok
    Brixton Market, Electric Avenue/Pope Rd/Atlantic Rd/Brixton Station Rd, SW9 8HE. Brixton tube/rail. Open Mon, Tue 10am-6pm; Wed 10am-4pm; Thur-Sat 10am-6pm (times vary between individual stalls).

    Islington Farmers’ Market
    The vibe Located in the elusive William Tyndale School playground just off Upper Street, this Sunday market feels like the secret enclave of keen and green Islington shoppers.

    The history Set up in 1999 by American food campaigner Nina Planck, who founded what became the London Farmers’ Markets (www.lfm.org.uk). As London’s first farmers’ market, its first day of operation drew swarms of eager shoppers, including local boy Nigel Slater.

    65 F market.jpg
    Islington radishes © Jitka Hynkova

    What can you buy? Anything that hasn’t done more miles than you. Fresh fruit and veg abound, as well as many meats and dairy products. Interesting they are, too – lamb, leek and apricot sausages from Shabden Park Farm, and tiny Japanese bantam eggs from Hurdlebrook Farm (which taste creamier than normal chicken eggs).

    In season Alham Wood Cheeses has recently started a new endeavour by selling fresh mozzarella made on its farms. Try out Kingcup Farm’s Chioggia beetroot, also known as candy-striped beetroot because of its red and white-ringed flesh – perfect for psychedelic salads.

    Caveat emptor?
    By noon, the first season asparagus had sold out – those Islington locals work fast when it comes to prized produce. Charmaine Mok
    Islington Farmers’ Market, William Tyndale School, Richmond Grove, N1 2AQ (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org.uk) Angel tube/bus 38, 56 or 73. Open Sun 10am-2pm.

    Stoke Newington Farmers’ Market
    The vibe This is prime ankle-nipping territory – prams, shopper trolleys and toddlers swarm around the various stalls set in the playground courtyard of the William Patten Primary school.

    The history Set up in 2003, by the Growing Communities Enterprise (which also runs a local organic fruit and veg box scheme) and run by local Hackney residents. The school hosts the market as part of its Healthy School initiative.

    What can you buy? All the produce comes from within 100 miles of Hackney. There are roughly 14 farmers and producers, selling organic greens and fruits, seafood, cakes, cheeses and meat. Once a month, Stour Valley Organic Lavender Company sells beautifully fragrant lavender honey and marmalades.

    In season As the weather gets warmer, head to Adrian Izzard’s stall for his organic greenhouse veg, particularly the salads.

    Caveat emptor? The Learmonth Brothers’ superlative bacon sandwiches attract superlatively long queues. Charmaine Mok
    Stoke Newington Farmers’ Market, William Patten Primary School, Stoke Newington Church St, N16 0NX (020 7502 7588) Stoke Newington rail/bus 73, 393, or 476. Open Sat 10am-2.30pm.

    Cabbages & Frocks Market
    The vibe A visit here is like a walk in a twee English garden, complete with cobblestones and foliage, where vintage-loving fashionistas rub elbows with ladies strolling by for the dainty cakes and crêpes.

    The history Started in October 2006 by events organiser Angela Cash, who thought up the marvellous idea of combining her two loves – fashion and food.

    What can you buy?
    Apart from the obligatory frocks, accessories and knick-knacks; rhubarb and ginger wine jam and handmade chocolates from Ooh La La Chocolaterie, Jamaican rum cakes from Rummanco and quality olive oils straight from Turkey, via Olive Healthy.

    In season
    Heavenly herbs, from Herbal Haven, to brighten up your dinner.

    Caveat emptor?
    The sensational Moroccan food from Abdul (formerly of Momo’s) is only available the last Saturday of every month – miss it and weep. Charmaine Mok
    Cabbages & Frocks Market, St Marylebone Parish Church Grounds, Marylebone High St, W1(www.cabbagesandfrocks.co.uk) Baker St tube. Open Sat 11am-5pm.

    Partridges Food Market
    The vibe Set next to the posh Partridges store in the Duke of York Square, this market attracts more affluent, food-conscious types than you can shake an organic parsnip at.

    Food_partridges_CREDIT_Natalie Pecht_crop.jpg
    Artisanal loaves at Partridges Food
    Market © Natalie Pecht

    The history Hatched on October 29, 2005, when there were little more than a dozen stalls - but the market has grown to 150 or so small specialty food producers selling grub from around Britain and the world.

    What can you buy? Weird and wonderful tea blends from YumChaa, pretty pâtés from Patchwork, and Spanish tapas to nibble on from De La Tierra. It’s also your last chance to try Crumbs and Doilies’ cupcake flavour of the month – chocolate Guinness.

    In season Plenty of tempting grub, but we were powerless to resist the truffle-scented brie.

    Caveat emptor? One might feel woefully © conspicuous if one does not show up in one’s best rags. Charmaine Mok
    Partridges Food Market (www.partridges.co.uk/foodmarket) Sloane Square or South Kensington tube. Open Sat 10am-4pm.

    Brick Lane, Sunday UpMarket

    The vibe Brick Lane is the place to see and be seen, but even the most dedicated poseurs need a place to eat. Perfect for a quick grab-and-gulp, the Sunday UpMarket is usually crawling with fashionistas, students, shell-shocked tourists and laidback locals.

    The history First opened in 2004 in part of the Old Truman Brewery, it quickly became an arena for designers and artists. We now think that the food court holds its own in terms of drawing in punters. And in winter, being inside is often better than braving the cold.

    What can you buy? The food stalls command both entrances, so you can grab a dragon roll (prawn tempura wrapped in sushi rice), or a crêpe before you get pulled along by the crowds. At the Brick Lane end, you can sample home-style Moroccan dishes, snack on Turkish treats, or drink mumbai masala chai from Carrom Café.

    In season Get your caffeine fix from Red Tent Ethiopian Coffee, where the coffee is brewed in clay pots over hot coals. Or try piping-hot Japanese takoyaki – octopus pieces in batter, served with okonomiyaki sauce (similar to Worcestershire sauce) and topped with dried bonito fish shavings.

    Caveat emptor?
    There’s never enough seating; on a cold winter’s day there’s nothing worse than standing trying to eat falafels with frostbitten digits. Charmaine Mok
    Sunday UpMarket, 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL (www.sundayupmarket.co.uk) Aldgate East tube. Open Sun 10am-5pm.

    blackheath_1.JPG
    Blackheath Farmers' Market © Chris Waywell

    Blackheath Farmers' Market
    The vibe The young affluent urban couples of Blackheath mingle with food-conscious pensioners among 20-odd stalls selling fresh and mostly organic produce.

    The history A London Farmers’ Market veteran, having been in operation since September 2000. As one of the LFM’s 14 official markets,
    its producers all come from within 100 miles of the M25. Everything must be raised, grown or made by the stallholders – no meddling middlemen allowed.

    What can you buy? Not every stallholder is at the market every Sunday but regular weekly treats include various dairy products from Redlay’s Farm, including crème fraîche and chunky fruit yoghurts. Catch England Preserves, who make fruit-rich jams, here every first and third week of the month, while the excellent goat's cheeses from Nut Knowle Farm are here all month except in the first week. Staples such as bread, fresh fruit and veg, seafood, meat and poultry from top UK producers are always on show, including Flour Power City, Brighton Fish and Perry Court Farm.

    In season Some of our more unusual picks include the strange and wonderful turban squash from Ted’s Veg; its bizarre bulbous protrusions house a sweet, hazelnut-like flavour that is perfect for roasting. Likewise, this is still the season to buy Romanesco cauliflower – look out for this beastly veg with pointy lime-green florets. Also, this is the place to salivate over the bounties of fungi (cultivated, wild and dried varieties) from Kentdown Mushrooms.

    Caveat emptor? Wick’s Manor Pork deserves applause for the lone attempt at serving hot food, although its choices are limited (bacon bap, or sausage in a bun: £2). Charmaine Mok
    Blackheath Farmers’ Market, Station car park, 2 Blackheath Village, SE3 0ZH (www.lfm.org.uk) Blackheath rail/54, 89, 108, 202, 380 bus. Open Sun 10am-2pm.

    Food_wimbledonfarmersmarket_CREDIT_Guy Dimond.jpg
    Unambiguous signage at Wimbledon
    Farmers' Market © Guy Dimond

    Wimbledon Farmers' Market
    The vibe An assortment of top-quality food stalls in a spacious school car park in suburban south Wimbledon, popular with the area’s young parents, apple-cheeked toddlers and the kind of cyclists who stop at red traffic lights. Many seem to have a glow of enlightenment about them: the joy of having time to peruse the produce and talk to the producers without the sort of crush you can expect at Borough Market must create its own form of nirvana.

    The history It’s one of the oldest ‘official’ farmers’ markets (the people selling the food have produced it themselves and do so within 100 miles of the M25). This one started in May 2000, and it’s one of 14 organised by London Farmers’ Markets, who ensure stallholders meet their strict criteria.

    What can you buy? Some stands rotate fortnightly, or even monthly. Regulars include Downland Pigs (excellent faggots and black pudding), Horti Halcyon (wonderful organic veg even in winter, such as black Tuscan kale and squashes). There are breads aplenty too: from Celtic Bakers, or from one of Flour Station’s growing number of outlets. Other producers are less predictable. In recent months we’ve seen The Potato Shop at Tenterden, for example, who sell a dozen rare potato varieties. Regulars include Farmer Ted’s Veg from Lincolnshire, which currently has some gorgeous top-on carrots, curly kale and the like. Around a dozen stalls in all at this time of year, covering everything from organic meats and cheeses to baked goods. Sign up at the gate for the weekly email newsletter to find out who’s coming next week.

    In season
    Our top tip at the moment is to head for the Hand-Picked Shellfish Co, which sells rare finds such as sand dabs (£1 each). Similar to small lemon sole, these delicious flatfish can be fried in butter and garnished with capers and lemon juice. Other things to look out for? There are still plenty of apples, with Chegworth Valley having the best selection; and game birds, now at the very tail end of their season, such as a brace of partridges from Manor Farm Game at only £6.50.

    Caveat emptor? Disappointing hot food: only one vendor selling lamb or beef burgers in dull buns for £2.50. And, with so much brilliant but occasionally pricey produce, there is always the prospect of spending 40 notes on a weekly shop before you’ve even realised it. Guy Dimond
    Wimbledon Farmers’ Market, Wimbledon Park First School, Havana Rd, SW19 8EJ (www.lfm.org.uk) Wimbledon Park tube/bus 156. Open Sat 10am-1pm.

    Broadway_Market_pic.jpg
    Covetable cupcakes at Broadway Market
    © Britta Jaschinski

    Broadway Market
    The vibe Mellow, trendy and twee all at once. Stallholders are loud and charming, engaging in witty banter over their wares. The Westgate Street end of the market is considerably livelier thanks to the abundance of food stalls – people are forever jostling to get their hands on freshly baked bread, pretty tarts, hot curries or coffee – in contrast to the folk who calmly peruse the handmade jewellery and knitting on the other side.

    The history One of London’s oldest chartered markets, Broadway Market has risen from the dead in recent years to become once again one of the city’s best loved and vibrant markets. The revival is thanks to the joint efforts of the local Tenants & Residents Association (the BMTRA) and Hackney Borough Council, which wanted to promote a farmers’ market to bring the community together to eat, laugh and buy.

    What can you buy? It’s possible to plan a whole dinner party around the produce available here, from fresh veg and meat to ready-made desserts. There are also cheeses galore – follow your nose – as well as charcuterie, bags of pick-and-mix pulses and spices, and seafood from Two Fishwives. Hot food is also in abundance, from Ghanaian dishes from the stall called Spinach & Agushi (of Raymond Blanc’s ‘The Restaurant’ fame) to moreish burgers from Northfield Farm (don’t forget to ask for the cheese). Cà Phê VN provides smooth, rich Vietnamese-style coffee and tea; you can buy bags of both ground coffee or coffee beans, as well as Vietnamese stainless steel coffee filters, to reproduce the lovely brews in your own home.

    Covet Keep an eye out for Violet cupcakes, exclusive to Broadway Market. On our visit we spied clementine and quince cupcakes among the regular chocolate and vanilla varieties. Charmaine Mok
    Broadway Market, London Fields, E8 (www.broadwaymarket.co.uk) Bethnal Green tube/London Fields rail/394, 388, 263, 55 253, 106, 48, 26, 277, D6 bus. Open Sat 9am-5pm.

    Food_marylebonefarmersmarket_CREDIT_Boris Baggs.jpg
    Piles of pumpkins at Marylebone Farmers'
    Market © Boris Baggs

    Marylebone Farmers’ Market
    The vibe Sunday morning sees Marylebone mums and Waitrose types who aim to get their weekly shop done before a posh coffee and croissant on the nearby high street.

    The history Part of the recent regeneration of Marylebone High Street under the auspices of landlord Howard de Walden Estates, this relative newbie’s been running in a car park since June 2003.

    What can you buy? Classic French nosh from Madame Gautier, or stop by Downland Produce for a portion of their whole hog roast.

    In season
    Purple is the new black: ’tis the season to buy cape broccoli, which resembles a dark violet cauliflower. Also, load up on the first cherry tomatoes of the English season, grown by Wight Salads.

    Caveat emptor?
    Get too distracted by the pretty boutiques on Marylebone High Street and you’ll miss the market; clearer signs would be handy. Charmaine Mok
    Marylebone Farmers’ Market, Cramer St car park, off Marylebone High St, W1 (www.lfm.org.uk) Bond St tube or Baker St tube/rail. Open Sun 10am-2pm.

    greenwich_2.jpg
    Antipasti and punters at Greenwich Market Food Court © Chris Waywell

    Greenwich Market Food Court
    The vibe A vintage cobblestone market crawling with impressed tourists, Starbucks cup-toting couples and weary Greenwich locals who
    just want to get their weekly olive fix.

    The history
    The market lost its roof because of flying bombs in 1944; the current arts and crafts market was born in 1985; and the food court was established in 1999.

    What can you buy?
    Exotic food to sate the gluttonous. Find freshly made sushi on the Tobiko stall, as well as baklava and Turkish meze from Sultan’s Delight. Make sure you sample the Caribbean dishes from Hot Flavours.

    In season
    Giant, moist cupcakes from The Real Baking Company, done up in pastels.

    Caveat emptor?
    The closest to fresh meat, fruit or veg is the M&S down the road. Visit this market to eat, until the new fresh fruit and vegetable market opens on May 7. Charmaine Mok
    Greenwich Market Food Court (www.greenwichmarket.net) Cutty Sark/Island Gardens DLR or Greenwich DLR/rail. Open Sat, Sun 9.30am-5.30pm.

  • Add your comment to this feature

8 comments

  1. Posted by steph cawley on 28 Apr 2008 16:56

    Hi All, I'm visiting family and friends next month and would love to check out a farmers market. Staying near St. Pancras. Love Borough Market, is there anything else similar nearby? All info greatly received.

  2. Posted by Time Out admin on 10 Apr 2008 17:03

    We’ve taken down the entry for Exmouth Market, as there seems to be some dispute at the moment about its status. Kitty, you’ll be pleased to see Broadway Market has been added. It’s in the nature of the (organic) beast that details about such things change frequently and without notice, which is why we want users of this site to let us know when things have changed, and to make constructive criticisms.
    The Time Out team

  3. Posted by Kitty on 08 Apr 2008 12:12

    How can you list the best food markets and not include Borough Market and Broadway Market in London Fields, Hackney??! The former an institution, the latter a great place for all things fresh - and the best samosas and vietnamese coffee in London!

  4. Posted by Exmouth Market shopper--NOT on 08 Apr 2008 00:41

    On Saturday, April 5, 2008 I decided to venture to Exmouth Market after perusing this article. The article specifically states that the street market is open on Saturday from 9 am to 4 pm, as does the website link provided. Unfortunately, the information is inaccurate, which we only learned after trekking out there. We arrived at 1pm on Saturday--there was no street market. A later web search brought up http://www.exmouth-market.com/, which states that the market is only open on Fridays now. It does seem that perhaps the author did not do all the necessary research in writing this article, and I would be hesitant in relying on any of the information provided.

  5. Posted by Laura on 02 Apr 2008 18:01

    There is definitely no need to make this a personal issue but Time Out should realise the impact an erroneous statement such as the above could have. Closer attention is called for.

  6. Posted by Objective reader on 31 Mar 2008 01:26

    As a precaution, do not take the previous reader comments into consideration too much. I thought comments on this page were supposed to deal with the markets and the foods being served; not act as personal attacks on the author of the article.
    Anyways, this is a review: Charmaine Mok would have [and indeed, has] done their research. Even if something he/she wrote does not settle well with what you believe, it is no reason to say disparaging things regarding Mok's journalism itself.
    Personally, I thought the review was articulate, well written, and informative.

  7. Posted by kate masters on 29 Mar 2008 13:07

    i would also advise readers to not take charmaine moks journalism too seriously. i have also seen and bought fresh groceries at greenwich. Alas it seems she is more intent on writng negative things about places she knows very little about to boost her own writing credentials than the truth. its the secont time in one week ive seen a display like this. in another piece she was complaining about fillet steak not being fatty....

  8. Posted by Greenwich Market Shopper on 22 Mar 2008 19:50

    Beware your trust in these rather blase reviews.
    As a shopper and friend of more than 1 stall at greenwich, I can advocate that there are indeed some very fine GROCERIES to be bought in the food court.
    Did Charmaine Mok even visit the market?? Dos M&S require her plug?? I suggest Charmaine thinks they do , and that small independent traders eeking out a living by selling fresh produce at markets deserve to wilt under her words...poor journalism. Maybe a few simple words about her journalism will affect her income like a few incorrect details could affect the traders that don't seem to matter in her review.

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