Vernal abundance at Cabbages and Frocks © Natalie Pecht
London’s best food markets
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By Charmaine Mok
Updated: Tue Sep 23 2008 -
London’s your oyster when it comes to finding mouthwatering produce. Charmaine Mok picks the city’s best (and most easily accessible) food markets that specialise in quality, well-sourced wares
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Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market
Incredibly chi-chi, but not without a bit of eccentricity – sure there are lots of straw hats, tea dresses and wicker baskets, but on our visit a jovial old man was entertaining the market goers with a hearty song played on his battered accordion. Suddenly, it felt like Paris.
Pimlico Road is a six-year-old market, though Orange Square was once host to roaming sheeps and donkeys as well as a local vegetable market way back in the eighteenth century. In 1764, a young Mozart penned his first symphony nearby at the tender age of eight. A statue of him, in all his frock-coated glory, stands proudly in the midst of the square.
BEST BUY There’s a higher concentration of fresh fruit and vegetables, meat and baked goods here, though notable vendors include Kingcup Farm , which deserves kudos for its unusual pickings (radish pods, edible flowers, leek flowers), and EFJ Gould for an interesting selection of cheddars. The jury’s still out on its Marmite cheese, though. Popina’s elderflower-and-gooseberry tart is bang on season and delicious to boot.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? The square is a perfect spot for winding down, with its tree-shaded benches dotted about the area – but there’s disappointingly little hot food (apart from 12 Green Acres’ sausage baps) to tuck into. No wonder most, at a loss, seem to retreat to Daylesford Organic across the street instead.
Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market, Orange Square, corner of Pimlico Rd and Ebury St, SW1 (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org.uk) Victoria tube/rail or Sloane Square tube. Open Sat 10am-2pm.
Cabbages & Frocks Market Feature continuesAdvertisement
Started by Angela Cash, a food-loving fashionista and the mind behind London Fashion Designer Sales, this Marylebone market draws in the crowds with its original fashion as well as mouthwatering grub. More of an eating destination than neighbouring Marylebone Farmers’ Market, the whimsical cobbled courtyard hosts stalls selling anything from own-made macaroons to Jamaican rum cakes, and bespoke jewellery and shoes to colourful aprons. Visitors who have a sweet tooth are particularly well catered for here. On the hunt for delicate truffles? You’ll find some unusual ones here to tickle the tastebuds – Naturally Indulgent is the market’s resident Willy Wonka, whipping up curious combinations such as saffron and sichuan pepper; porcini mushroom and bacon; or seasonal flavours such as cherry.
BEST BUY Naturally Indulgent’s umeboshi (pickled Japanese apricot), vodka and sesame truffles are a sweet-and-sour delight. Also, Gindo – the market’s resident sausage and meat connoisseur – has recently introduced uncooked organic chicken, each with five different stuffings (minced veal, thyme and sausage to name a few).
THEN WHAT? Parade your new threads down Marylebone High Street, armed with baskets brimming full of flavoured olive oils and shortbread biscuits. Then stop for a late lunch at The Providores & Tapa Room (109 Marylebone High St, NW1 5LT; 020 7935 6175) – if you haven’t stuffed yourself silly already.
Cabbages & Frocks Market, St Marylebone Parish Church Grounds, Marylebone High St, W1 (www.cabbagesandfrocks.co.uk) Baker St tube. Open Sat 11am-5pm.
Grab lunch at Whitecross Street Food Market Whitecross Street Food Market
This market started a year ago as a monthly operation, but the wait became unbearable for regulars – so it now operates weekly. The workaholics of Clerkenwell and Hoxton descend upon this energetic food market every Thursday and Friday for a slap-up lunch on the go. Follow your nose, or gravitate towards the vans with snaking queues – always indicators of quality grub. A world of cuisine means everyone is catered for. Luardo’s, purveyor of Latin-American street food, is a good bet, with fluffy burritos that may rival some of Mexico’s best offerings; keep an eye out for their mint-green vintage Citroën van. Another hit with regulars is Mario and Carol’s Italian food stall, where an order of classic Roman-style grub comes with friendly banter from the opinionated yet charming Mario. Grab some olive oils or pesto, or choose from a selection of fruit and vegetables.
BEST BUY For a twee treat, buy your friends an egg carton full of vanilla-rich mini fairy cakes from Netty Poskitt.
THEN WHAT? Waddle off sated, then pop into Bread & Honey (205 Whitecross St, EC1; 020 7253 4455) – one of London’s finest streetwear shops – and realise you can’t fit into anything after your gluttonous adventure. Afterwards, drown your sorrows with a cappuccino at Coffee@ several doors down.
Whitecross Weekly Food Market, Whitecross St, EC1Y (020 7378 0422/www.whitecrossstreetmarket.co.uk) Old St tube/rail. Open Thur, Fri 11am-5pm.
Berwick Street Market
It lies between seedy Soho strip joints at one end and the elegant restaurant Yauatcha at the other. Bellows can be heard all round from the stallholders, vying for the attention of the harried denizens of Soho. The market is one of London’s oldest, going back as far as 1778, when people started (illegally) displaying their wares on the pavement outside their shops. In 1883, the occupant of 101 Berwick Street had action taken against him by the vestry (church council) for ‘placing out baskets and boards containing vegetables’ and obstructing the street. It wasn’t until 1892 that the vestry officially recognised it as a proper market.
BEST BUY Besides the usual fruit and veg, knick-knacks and knickers, there are flowers and fresh seafood.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? Berwick Street seems in steep decline – sadly, the number of stalls in this once-bustling market has shrunk, and the quality of produce on sale is now usually sub-supermarket.
Berwick Street Market, Berwick St, W1. Piccadilly Circus tube. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm.
Marylebone Farmers' Market Marylebone Farmers’ Market
Sunday morning sees Marylebone mums and Waitrose types who aim to get their weekly shop done before a posh coffee and croissant on the nearby high street. Part of the recent regeneration of Marylebone High Street under the auspices of landlord Howard de Walden Estates, this relative newbie’s been running in a car park since June 2003.
BEST BUY Classic French nosh from Madame Gautier, or stop by Downland Produce for a portion of their whole hog roast.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? Get too distracted by the pretty boutiques on Marylebone High Street and you’ll miss the market; clearer signs would be handy.
Marylebone Farmers’ Market, Cramer St car park, off Marylebone High St, W1 (www.lfm.org.uk) Bond St tube or Baker St tube/rail. Open Sun 10am-2pm.
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20 comments
dear time out,
i sell my own home pasta, pestos pasta sauces and chocolates truffles, at the alexandra palace farmers market, and i notice that many of the stall that you mention are not there anymore!!
you need an update!
all the best, nino.
cool email me a page of this
The sushi stall at greenwich has change their name its call now koyul hand made sushi specialist.delisious sushi.
The old and traditional Ridley Road market in Dalston, Hackney has not received a mention. Perhaps, because vegetables and friut bought in bowls for £1 is not trendy, there is little organic available -- usually bananas and eggs -- but there is atmosphere. Music wise it is possible to hear soul, sacred, rock and rap during the day. Towards clearing up time Arabic/Turkish sounds and the fishmonger who calls the seagulls down to eat leftovers. A diverse market selling everything from pots, material, incense and most foods. Check out the fabulous fabric cave towards the east end of the market.
I enjoy the relatively new markets and have supported Spitafields organic stalls for over 10 years but Ridley Road should not be ignored. Best days Friday and Saturday but it is open from Monday; there are more stalls later in the week.
Re North End Road: I've been going there for five years and not had that problem. Thanks for the warning though. As with most markets, it's all about being judicious and picking the best from each stall. And about getting to know the traders, I suppose. There are some stalls on the market I would definitely avoid and some which are brilliant - each to their own, I guess.
North End Road market? Only if you don't mind stuff that's a bit ropey. It's only market - at home or abroad - where I have ever actually fallen victim to that trick where you choose one and then they give you another (older) one from round the back of the stall. Don't bother. Or pay attention, one of the two.
Please do not forget Deptford market, with its amazingly fresh veg and fruit stalls, incredible fabric and bric-a-brac bargains, and of course the fabulous Housewives Cash and Carry!
Don't forget about the great market on North End Road in Fulham. It's a proper London market, none of yer fancy organic stuff, just good quality fruit and veg. I go there every week for my whole week's shop and it's brilliant. Gets a bit hectic on a Saturday though.
What about Acton Market on The Mount/King St. Acton W3 9NW? With some food stalls run by the London Farmers' Market people, the Acton Market has a great selection of hot and cold food. The Farmers' Market is open every Saturday from 9am until 1pm. (www.lfm.org.uk) and the whole Acton Market is open from 10am until 5pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. visit our website at www.actonmarket.co.uk. Why not join us for the Acton Food Festival on September 5, 6 and 7th from 12-7pm. All kinds of world food, live music and children's activities.
Thanks this is a great review but minor correction, Broadway market was researched funded and created by Broadway Market Traders (not Tenants) & Residents Association who still operate it, they work in partnership with Hackney Council in their role as Regulators...! It was the local people who wanted a farmer and Producers market along side tradition designers makers, collectors and some old time traders. This market really is for the people by the people. Ps you should check out violets new line in Little biscuits like scrummy Oero's yum
Exmouth Market Shopper - not. sadly Islington Council didn't renew the license to trade to the organiser of the new Exmouth market -one of the founders and manager of Broadway market- Exmouth was run both Friday and Saturday for a year and was building fantastically as a Broadway market did, Islington have now turned it into a hot food lunch stop. sadly the local residents and real food shoppers all have lost out.
Don't forget that there is a nifty, modest sized farmers market behind the Palmers Green train station. Excellent fish, bread and local veg, along with some stuff from further south (eg Isle of Wight Garlic and tomatoes), and more. Worth a go if you live near by! Also, I have just found out there is a farmers market Sundays at Ally Pally - haven't checked it out yet, so I don't know about variety of produce for sale. Anyone out there know about it?
Hi All, I'm visiting family and friends next month and would love to check out a farmers market. Staying near St. Pancras. Love Borough Market, is there anything else similar nearby? All info greatly received.
We’ve taken down the entry for Exmouth Market, as there seems to be some dispute at the moment about its status. Kitty, you’ll be pleased to see Broadway Market has been added. It’s in the nature of the (organic) beast that details about such things change frequently and without notice, which is why we want users of this site to let us know when things have changed, and to make constructive criticisms.
The Time Out team
How can you list the best food markets and not include Borough Market and Broadway Market in London Fields, Hackney??! The former an institution, the latter a great place for all things fresh - and the best samosas and vietnamese coffee in London!