Vernal abundance at Cabbages and Frocks © Natalie Pecht
Award winners | Central | North | South | East | West
Time Out Eating & Drinking Awards 2008: Best Local Market
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WINNER
Alexandra Palace Farmers' Market
If visitors aren’t instantly charmed by the market’s location at the foot of the magnificent Alexandra Palace (the adjoining park is a perfect spot for laying out your post-market bounty for an impromptu picnic), then the jovial stallholders and range of hot food, fresh produce, artisan goods and general feel-good atmosphere will. Created by City & Country Farmers’ Markets, most producers hail from Kent, Surrey and Sussex, with plenty of other local English producers as well.
On a sunny day, there is no more enoyable market in London – barbecues, grilling everything from juicy sausages from The Giggly Pig, or coconut milk-basted Mozambican chicken from stallholder Zambeziana, will be in full swing, with much of the neighbourhood congregating on the makeshift eating areas (wooden garden furniture, lawn chairs). Refreshments range from mint tea (from Algerian sweet stall Idli) to Edgebank Organics’ superlative strawberry smoothies, to the coffee stall selling chai lattes and cappuccinos. Be it fresh fruit and vegetables, seafood, cheese, bread, juices or delicious, freshly prepared grub – Ally Pally has it all.
Alexandra Palace Farmers’ Market, entrance at Hornsey Gate, off Muswell Hill; or Campsbourne School, Nightingale Lane, off Priory Rd, N8 (0208 302 9010). Alexandra Palace rail, then W3 bus. Open Sun 10am-3pm.
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RUNNERS-UP
Broadway Market
Quaint cafés, pubs and indie music shops line the street, but the real star here is the market. Now the food-loving hipster’s weekend hang-out of choice, BroadwayMarket is as much about seeking out quality food as it is about just letting your hair down and soaking up the vibe – with a freshly grilled burger (from Northfield Farm) in one hand and a chilled Vietnamese coffee (from Ca Phe VN) in the other. Stalls range from the classic (sweet seasonal cupcakes from Violet, chunky meats from Beadon Farm) to the exotic (The Arabica Food & Spice Company do a mouthwatering range of meze, as well as Damascene falafel wraps). Spices, cheeses, breads and olives are present; it’s hard to imagine the need to go anywhere else for your weekly food shop.
Broadway Market, London Fields, E8 (www.broadwaymarket.co.uk). Bethnal Green tube, London Fields rail or bus 26, 48, 55, 206, 253, 263, 277, 388, 394, D6. Open Sat 9am-5pm.
Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market
Set in the quaint Orange Square just off Pimlico Road, this London Farmers’ Markets operation caters for the chi-chi residents of Belgravia, Chelsea, Battersea and Pimlico. A concentration of stalls boasts an impressive range of produce – we loved Kingcup Farm, with its range of edible flowers and interesting vegetables and herbs (leek flowers, radish pods); Popina for its seasonal tarts (gooseberry and elderflower); EFJ Gould’s cheddar, and more besides. There’s plenty of benches in the shade for a lazy afternoon devouring ready-to-eat purchases; we only wish there were more hot food options, with the only one on our visit being sausage baps from Dorset’s 12 Green Acres.
Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market, Orange Square, corner of Pimlico Rd and Ebury St, SW1 (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org.uk). Sloane Square tube or Victoria tube/rail. Open Sat 10am-2pm.
Swiss Cottage Farmers’ Market
This is a sun-soaked market with real charm. Part of the London Farmers’ Markets organisation, the 15-or-so stallholders who attend weekly are knowledgable food buffs who know their produce. What to do with the large, juicy Padrón peppers sold at Wild Country Organics? Sizzle ’em with olive oil and plenty of sea salt. What’s today’s great seafood bargain? Why, it’s clearly the sand dabs, at £1 a piece. The Celtic Bakers are proud purveyors of moreish, organic breads – try their buttermilk sourdough. Hot food comes in the form of grilled ‘hetties’ (Leicestershire slang for patties) at March House or rustic Italian food from Isabella Burino, while cakes, almost as good as your mum’s (so they claim), are rich and decadent at Cupboard Love. Though doubled in size since its days pitching up at the O2 Centre car park in Finchley, it’s still a rather modest market in comparison to its competitors.
Swiss Cottage Farmers’ Market, Eton Avenue, opposite Hampstead Theatre, NW3 3EU (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org. uk). Swiss Cottage tube. Open Wed 10am-4pm.
Wimbledon Park Farmers’ Market
Little more than a dozen stallholders regularly trade at this neighbourhood market, with an excellent rota of other producers who turn up sporadically, which might include The Garlic Farm, Ladywell Organics (meat) or Norbury Blue (cheeses). There’s always something interesting for sale; the Hand Picked Shellfish Company might be wowing the locals with shark meat, while Alham Wood Cheeses does a brisk trade in unpasteurised cow’s milk, though these aren’t available every week. You’ll do well veg-wise at this market – Horti Halycon always has some fantastic seasonal produce, such as delicate bags of emerald organic rocket, or fresh crunchy turnips, and there are a couple of other veg stalls too, currently selling seasonal rarities such as cob nuts.
Wimbledon Park Farmers’ Market, Wimbledon Park First School, Havana Rd, SW19 8EJ (020 7833 0338/www.lfm. org.uk). Wimbledon Park tube/bus 156. Open Sat 10am-1pm.
Award winners | Central | North | South | East | West
Central
Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market
Incredibly chi-chi, but not without a bit of eccentricity – sure there are lots of straw hats, tea dresses and wicker baskets, but on our visit a jovial old man was entertaining the market goers with a hearty song played on his battered accordion. Suddenly, it felt like Paris.
Pimlico Road is a six-year-old market, though Orange Square was once host to roaming sheeps and donkeys as well as a local vegetable market way back in the eighteenth century. In 1764, a young Mozart penned his first symphony nearby at the tender age of eight. A statue of him, in all his frock-coated glory, stands proudly in the midst of the square.
BEST BUY There’s a higher concentration of fresh fruit and vegetables, meat and baked goods here, though notable vendors include Kingcup Farm , which deserves kudos for its unusual pickings (radish pods, edible flowers, leek flowers), and EFJ Gould for an interesting selection of cheddars. The jury’s still out on its Marmite cheese, though. Popina’s elderflower-and-gooseberry tart is bang on season and delicious to boot.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? The square is a perfect spot for winding down, with its tree-shaded benches dotted about the area – but there’s disappointingly little hot food (apart from 12 Green Acres’ sausage baps) to tuck into. No wonder most, at a loss, seem to retreat to Daylesford Organic across the street instead.
Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market, Orange Square, corner of Pimlico Rd and Ebury St, SW1 (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org.uk) Victoria tube/rail or Sloane Square tube. Open Sat 10am-2pm.
Cabbages & Frocks Market
Started by Angela Cash, a food-loving fashionista and the mind behind London Fashion Designer Sales, this Marylebone market draws in the crowds with its original fashion as well as mouthwatering grub. More of an eating destination than neighbouring Marylebone Farmers’ Market, the whimsical cobbled courtyard hosts stalls selling anything from own-made macaroons to Jamaican rum cakes, and bespoke jewellery and shoes to colourful aprons. Visitors who have a sweet tooth are particularly well catered for here. On the hunt for delicate truffles? You’ll find some unusual ones here to tickle the tastebuds – Naturally Indulgent is the market’s resident Willy Wonka, whipping up curious combinations such as saffron and sichuan pepper; porcini mushroom and bacon; or seasonal flavours such as cherry.
BEST BUY Naturally Indulgent’s umeboshi (pickled Japanese apricot), vodka and sesame truffles are a sweet-and-sour delight. Also, Gindo – the market’s resident sausage and meat connoisseur – has recently introduced uncooked organic chicken, each with five different stuffings (minced veal, thyme and sausage to name a few).
THEN WHAT? Parade your new threads down Marylebone High Street, armed with baskets brimming full of flavoured olive oils and shortbread biscuits. Then stop for a late lunch at The Providores & Tapa Room (109 Marylebone High St, NW1 5LT; 020 7935 6175) – if you haven’t stuffed yourself silly already.
Cabbages & Frocks Market, St Marylebone Parish Church Grounds, Marylebone High St, W1 (www.cabbagesandfrocks.co.uk) Baker St tube. Open Sat 11am-5pm.
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| Grab lunch at Whitecross Street Food Market |
Whitecross Street Food Market
This market started a year ago as a monthly operation, but the wait became unbearable for regulars – so it now operates weekly. The workaholics of Clerkenwell and Hoxton descend upon this energetic food market every Thursday and Friday for a slap-up lunch on the go. Follow your nose, or gravitate towards the vans with snaking queues – always indicators of quality grub. A world of cuisine means everyone is catered for. Luardo’s, purveyor of Latin-American street food, is a good bet, with fluffy burritos that may rival some of Mexico’s best offerings; keep an eye out for their mint-green vintage Citroën van. Another hit with regulars is Mario and Carol’s Italian food stall, where an order of classic Roman-style grub comes with friendly banter from the opinionated yet charming Mario. Grab some olive oils or pesto, or choose from a selection of fruit and vegetables.
BEST BUY For a twee treat, buy your friends an egg carton full of vanilla-rich mini fairy cakes from Netty Poskitt.
THEN WHAT? Waddle off sated, then pop into Bread & Honey (205 Whitecross St, EC1; 020 7253 4455) – one of London’s finest streetwear shops – and realise you can’t fit into anything after your gluttonous adventure. Afterwards, drown your sorrows with a cappuccino at Coffee@ several doors down.
Whitecross Weekly Food Market, Whitecross St, EC1Y (020 7378 0422/www.whitecrossstreetmarket.co.uk) Old St tube/rail. Open Thur, Fri 11am-5pm.
Berwick Street Market
It
lies between seedy Soho strip joints at one end and the elegant
restaurant Yauatcha at the other. Bellows can be heard all round from
the stallholders, vying for the attention of the harried denizens of
Soho. The market is one of London’s oldest,
going back as far as 1778, when people started (illegally) displaying
their wares on the pavement outside their shops. In 1883, the occupant
of 101 Berwick Street had action taken against him by the vestry
(church council) for ‘placing out baskets and boards containing
vegetables’ and obstructing the street. It wasn’t until 1892 that the
vestry officially recognised it as a proper market.
BEST BUY Besides the usual fruit and veg, knick-knacks and knickers, there are flowers and fresh seafood.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? Berwick Street seems in steep decline – sadly, the number of stalls in
this once-bustling market has shrunk, and the quality of produce on
sale is now usually sub-supermarket.
Berwick Street Market, Berwick St, W1. Piccadilly Circus tube. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm.
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| Marylebone Farmers' Market |
Marylebone Farmers’ Market
Sunday
morning sees Marylebone mums and Waitrose types who aim to get their
weekly shop done before a posh coffee and croissant on the nearby high
street. Part of the recent regeneration of
Marylebone High Street under the auspices of landlord Howard de Walden
Estates, this relative newbie’s been running in a car park since June
2003.
BEST BUY Classic French nosh from Madame Gautier, or stop by Downland Produce for a portion of their whole hog roast.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? Get too distracted by the pretty boutiques on Marylebone High Street and you’ll miss the market; clearer signs would be handy.
Marylebone
Farmers’ Market, Cramer St car park, off Marylebone High St, W1
(www.lfm.org.uk) Bond St tube or Baker St tube/rail. Open Sun 10am-2pm.
Award winners | Central | North | South | East | West
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| Fresh asparagus |
Alexandra Palace Farmers’ Market
A spectacular market located a short walk from Alexandra Palace, on a long and winding path-cum-car park (ten to 12 times a year, the market relocates to nearby Campsbourne School when the Ally Pally car park is needed for large events). Started in April 2005 after organiser Chris Elder of City & Country Farmers’ Markets took the suggestion from a friend to open a market in a park, the operation has grown formidably to include approximately 40 stallholders each week. At this time of year, there are barbecues aplenty – sizzling sausages from The Giggly Pig Company and zingy Mozambican chicken from the Zambeziana stall to name two of the best (from the latter, there’s also the option of dousing your dish with a fire-raising own-made chilli sauce – take heed of the warning sign). Edgebank Organics offers a true breath of sunshine, selling lovely strawberry and elderflower cordials, fruit-packed jams and refreshing strawberry smoothies. To top it all off, there are plenty of verdant vegetables, shimmering seafood and enough bread and cakes to make a supermodel run the other way.
BEST BUY The canapé-sized pão de queijos (Brazilian cheese buns) from Minas will brighten up any dinner party – they’re gluten-free as well.
THEN WHAT? Take a pleasant stroll through leaf-lined paths up to Alexandra Palace and take in the spectacular sweeping views over the city – a perfect picnic spot for tucking in to your purchases.
Alexandra Palace Farmers’ Market, entrance at Hornsey Gate, off Muswell Hill; or Campsbourne School, Nightingale Lane, off Priory Rd, N8 (01689 860840) Alexandra Palace rail, then W3 bus. Open Sun 10am-3pm.
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| She doesn't sell seashells but you'll still find them at Swiss Cottage |
Swiss Cottage Farmers’ Market
This lovely stretch of space on Eton Avenue has recently (from May 2008) welcomed back Swiss Cottage Farmers’ Market, which had been pitching up at the O2 Centre’s car park while Camden Council set about completing a redesign of the area. There’s plenty of room for each stallholder and the resulting sprawl of produce, with notable offerings from East Sussex, such as the aptly named Pies, which sell pies; goats’ cheeses from Nut Knowle Farm; and fresh fish from Channel Fish. The lovely Isabella Burino, who appeared recently on ‘The Great British Menu’ in a cook-off with Atul Kochhar, now runs her own company, Absolutely with Love. Selling ready-made Italian classics, Burino’s stall heaves with products from panna cotta to gnocchi and lasagne. Kush Cuisine, pickle purveyors and creators of many a fine chutney and preserve, also brings a Caribbean flavour to the market with their famed spice rubs, marinades and infused oils.
BEST BUY Kush Cuisine’s fragrant orange, mango and cardamom marmalade has replaced conventional Seville orange in our pantry.
THEN WHAT? Head to the Hampstead Theatre and pick up tickets for ‘On the Rocks’, a comedy about DH Lawrence, friendship, fidelity and co-habiting in wartime Cornwall.
Swiss Cottage Farmers’ Market, Eton Avenue, opposite Hampstead Theatre, NW3 3EU (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org.uk) Swiss Cottage tube. Open Wed 10am-4pm.
Archway Market
The original market was established in autumn 2006 on the Archway Mall, but after being given notice by the landlord to move on by August 2007, alternative trading spots were sought. Now it’s on a stretch of Holloway Road, with the stalls snaking into St John’s Grove. The patrons of the market are as varied in character as the items on
sale. You’ll find fragrant candles, exotic rugs and ancient VHS tapes
as well as food stalls.
BEST BUY We enjoyed a freshly prepared roast pork sandwich with thick slabs of pineapple from an nameless Brazilian food stall, where you can also chow down on sonho – a sweet Brazilian pastry filled with custard; or pudim, a pudding similar to panna cotta, made with condensed milk. The rye breads from Suffolk’s All Natural Bakery are well worth buying. Fresh fish, scallops and king prawns are available if you arrive early, and there are plenty of scrummy-looking fruits and vegetables from Farmer Ted.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? As a relatively small market, it hasn't yet reached the heights of other large and bustling food markets in London. More support is needed from Londoners to make this a truly thriving operation.
Archway Market, Holloway Rd and St John’s Grove, N19 (www.archwaymarket.org) Archway tube. Open Thur 12noon-6pm, Sat 10am-5pm.
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| Islington radishes |
Islington Farmers’ Market
Located in the elusive William Tyndale School playground just off Upper
Street, this Sunday market feels like the secret enclave of keen and
green Islington shoppers. Set up in 1999 by
American food campaigner Nina Planck, who founded what became the
London Farmers’ Markets (www.lfm.org.uk). As London’s first farmers’
market, its first day of operation drew swarms of eager shoppers,
including local boy Nigel Slater.
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| Stacks of cheese at Stoke Newington Farmers' Market |
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| Baskets of peppers at Queens Park Farmers' Market |
Queens Park Farmers' Market
Like most markets situated in school playgrounds, this one is completely convivial but positively frightening for the child-aversive. It's frequented by fierce food-curious shoppers who don’t think twice about questioning the provenance of Phil’s fresh pesto; it also just celebrated its third birthday, having opened on 11 September 2005 under the auspices of London Farmers’ Markets (LFM).
BEST BUY Bread to rival nearby Baker & Spice, dried fruits to snack on virtuously from Butterfly Meadow and gorgeous English wine from St Anne’s Vineyard. The Walled Garden at Wolterton Hall have some interesting offerings: crystal apple cucumbers and tiny pearl-sized grapes that taste of tangy Ribena. But approach Wobbly Bottom with caution: their extremely moreish goats’ cheeses are many a regular’s vice, many of whom risk returning with the prophetic jiggly arse. As pumpkins and squashes start to nudge the summer berries out of the way, try a spaceship-shaped patti-pan squash; cook it as you would a courgette.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? With so much new seasonal produce popping up after a long summer of the same stuff, the urge to purchase everything in sight can become all too great. Bring a limited wad of cash for damage control.
Queens Park Farmers' Market, Salusbury Primary School, Salusbury Rd, NW6 6RG (020 7833 0338/ www.lfm.org.uk) Queens Park tube/rail. Open Sun 10am-2pm.
Award winners | Central | North | South | East | West
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| Bread of heaven at Sunday UpMarket |
Brick Lane Sunday UpMarket, 91 Brick Lane, E1 6QL (www.sundayupmarket.co.uk) Aldgate East tube or Liverpool St tube/rail. Open Sun 10am-5pm.
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| Enjoy a slice of Broadway Market if you've got a sweet tooth |
Broadway Market
One of London’s oldest chartered markets, this veteran has made a remarkable comeback in recent years (since 2004, to be exact) and has become a destination for fashionably attired food lovers from Hackney and beyond. Most of the food-based stalls are clustered around the Westgate Street end of the market, where hot food and fresh produce dominate; venture further out and you’re into incense, accessories and rug territory. The market benefits from a jovial, welcoming atmosphere that is helped by the community of regular stallholders who often engage in witty banter over their wares. There is no shortage of quality edibles, from moreish fish pies from Two Fishwives to hot Ghanaian food from Spinach & Agushi. Sizzling burgers from Northfield Farm are a must-try – don’t forget to bag some of their quality back bacon or meaty sirloin steaks, either.
BEST BUY Vietnamese coffee is a joy to make as well as drink, so bag yourself a stainless steel Vietnamese coffee filter and ground French beans from Cà Phê VN for a strong, rich brew at home.
THEN WHAT? Wander up Landsdowne Drive, past London Fields, and have a well-deserved afternoon pint of Deuchars IPA at The Prince Arthur (95 Forest Rd, E8 3BH; 020 7249 9996), a pleasing gastropub run by Tom and Ed Martin, the people behind the Empress of India and The Gun.
Broadway Market, London Fields, E8 (www.broadwaymarket.co.uk) Bethnal Green tube/London Fields rail/394, 388, 263, 55 253, 106, 48, 26, 277, D6 bus. Open Sat 9am-5pm.
Award winners | Central | North | South | East | West
South
Alma Garden Market
Set in the open courtyard behind the Alma pub, it’s back garden barbecue meets food market meets pub party. Created by Liz Kennedy and Mandy Sciberras and launched in May 2008 with the help of the Croydon Enterprise programme, to the glee of residents who have long lamented Crystal Palace’s lack of decent food stores.
BEST BUYS Visit Castro Oils for a great product paired with a great story – they say that their Sicilian olive oils impressed former Cuban president Fidel Castro so much, he decided to import the stuff to his country. Thus, a cartoon likeness of his face hangs around the neck of each bottle. More good eats include oven-fresh breads and pastries from nearby Blackbird Bakery. Plus, Strawberry Tom specialises in summery strawberry treats, be it smoothies, tarts or even strawbs sprinkled with black pepper.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? If you’re squeamish, pass on Mediterranea’s casu marzu (maggot cheese); it’s advised you chew long and hard on this famous ‘rotten’ cheese so the future flies don’t survive to cause a ruckus inside your tum…
Alma Garden Market, Alma Pub, 95 Church Rd, SE19 2EZ (www.thealmapub.com) Crystal Palace rail. Open Sat 10am-6pm.
Clapham Farmers' Market
Another notch on London Farmers’ Market’s repetoire, this one began on
June 25 2006 and has fast become the better alternative to the nearby
Tesco. As you would expect given its primary school location, it’s frequented by parents with their pint-sized offspring in tow – you’ll be dodging the latter by the dozen, but luckily there’s hopscotch and a mini playground to keep them occupied.
BEST BUYS The Complete Pig, from High Wycombe in Buckinghamshire, sells top-notch back bacon and other pig products, made from their herd of woodland-reared, pedigree porkers. Also, there are also showy flowers (from Beauchamp Nurseries) and grow-your-own salads from The Kitchen Garden Company to upgrade your kitchen. Nothing like pots of French tarragon, Greek basil and a fig tree to garden to make one look like a serious domestic god(dess). Snap up bulbs of fresh green garlic, which have a milder flavour that go perfectly with delicate summer dishes. Peak crop season means you’ll start to see plump raspberries, courgettes and aubergines, while verdant punnets of peas are little globes of summer sweetness at this time of year.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? On our visit, the market was sparser than most; a great one for locals, but not one to make a special journey for.
Charmaine Mok
Clapham Farmers’ Market, Bonneville Primary School, Bonneville Gardens, SW4 9LB (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org.uk) Clapham South tube or bus 255, 355. Open Sun 10am-2pm.
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| Fish food at Brixton Market |
Brixton Market
From African and Caribbean produce to value-for-money halal meats, tropical fish and spices, there really is no better place to get them all. Las Americas (26 Pope’s Rd, SW9 8JJ; 020 7274 5533) is a butcher and café in one – come here to get some excellent Colombian cuts such as skirt steak, and classic Latin American street snacks including chicharrones (crisp pork rinds), best washed down with a guarana soft drink. Exploring the market with reggae music pulsing softly in the background transports visitors to sunnier climes, reinforced by the bounteous offerings of plantains, cassava, custard apples, foot-long yams – all punctuated by boxes full of the jarring bright colours of spicy red and yellow scotch bonnet chilli peppers. The vibe is relaxed and the stallholders chatty, but the market isn’t for the faint-hearted – also up for grabs are periwinkles, pigs’ snouts and trotters.
BEST BUY The catch of the day at LS Mash & Sons fishmonger (11 Atlantic Rd, SW9 8HX; 020 7274 6423).
THEN WHAT? Join the queues at Franco Manca (4 Market Row, Electric Lane, SW9 8LD; 020 7738 3021) and indulge in some of the best wood-fired sourdough pizzas this side of Naples.
Brixton Market, Electric Avenue/Pope Rd/Atlantic Rd/Brixton Station Rd, SW9 8HE. Brixton tube/rail. Open Mon, Tue 10am-6pm; Wed 10am-4pm; Thur-Sat 10am-6pm (times vary between individual stalls).
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| Great bangers at Oval Farmers' Market |
Oval Farmers’ Market
This is a friendly little operation organised by City & Country Farmers’ Market, and has the added charm of being set in the grassy grounds of St Mark’s Church.
A dozen-or-so stalls turn up weekly, and a tight-knit bunch they are, too – it’s not uncommon to see stallholders fetching tea for each other from the Café Bancarella van. The Cake Hole stand, run by Lara Morley, is a highlight; her lemon and almond cake is packed full of Sicilian sunshine, and the humble Victoria sponge is as soft as a cloud. There’s even fidget pie, made with off-the-bone ham, cheese and apples, from Harvest Foods.
BEST BUY A coconut-rich, cherry tomato laksa from the nameless laksa stall – a medium tub of this aromatic Peranakan (a culture with Chinese and Malaysian influences) soup with vermicelli noodles is perfect for two; reheat and round out with some tiger prawns for a lovely, light and comforting meal.
THEN WHAT? Have a rest in the nearby Kennington Park and soak in some local history – formerly Kennington Common, it was the site of public executions until the 1800s, and the speakers’ corner of south London.
Oval Farmers’ Market, St Mark’s Church, SE11 4PW (020 8297 5590) Oval tube. Open Sat 10am-3pm.
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| Fabulous fruit and veg at Blackheath Farmers' Market |
Blackheath Farmers' Market
A London Farmers’ Market veteran, having been in operation since September 2000. As one of the LFM’s 14 official markets, its
producers all come from within 100 miles of the M25. Everything must be
raised, grown or made by the stallholders – no meddling middlemen
allowed. The young affluent urban couples of Blackheath mingle with
food-conscious pensioners among 20-odd stalls selling fresh and
mostly organic produce.
Not every stallholder is at
the market every Sunday but regular weekly treats include various
dairy products from Redlay’s Farm, including crème fraîche and chunky
fruit yoghurts. Catch England Preserves, who make fruit-rich jams, here
every first and third week of the month, while the excellent goat's
cheeses from Nut Knowle Farm are here all month except in the first
week. Staples such as bread, fresh fruit and veg, seafood, meat and
poultry from top UK producers are always on show, including Flour Power
City, Brighton Fish and Perry Court Farm.
BEST BUY Some
of our more unusual picks include the strange and wonderful turban
squash from Ted’s Veg; its bizarre bulbous protrusions house a sweet,
hazelnut-like flavour that is perfect for roasting. Likewise, this is
still the season to buy Romanesco cauliflower – look out for this
beastly veg with pointy lime-green florets. Also, this is the place to
salivate over the bounties of fungi (cultivated, wild and dried
varieties) from Kentdown Mushrooms.
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| In season: courgette flowers |
Wimbledon Farmers' Market
An assortment of top-quality food stalls in a spacious school car park
in suburban south Wimbledon, popular with the area’s young parents,
apple-cheeked toddlers and the kind of cyclists who stop at red
traffic lights. Many seem to have a glow of enlightenment about them:
the joy of having time to peruse the produce and talk to the producers
without the sort of crush you can expect at Borough Market must create
its own form of nirvana.
It’s one of the
oldest ‘official’ farmers’ markets (the people selling the food have
produced it themselves and do so within 100 miles of the M25). This one
started in May 2000, and it’s one of 14 organised by London Farmers’
Markets, who ensure stallholders meet their strict criteria.
Some
stands rotate fortnightly, or even monthly. Regulars include Downland
Pigs (excellent faggots and black pudding), Horti Halcyon (wonderful
organic veg even in winter, such as black Tuscan kale and squashes).
There are breads aplenty too: from Celtic Bakers, or from one of Flour
Station’s growing number of outlets. Other producers are less
predictable. In recent months we’ve seen The Potato Shop at Tenterden,
for example, who sell a dozen rare potato varieties. Regulars include
Farmer Ted’s Veg from Lincolnshire, which currently has some gorgeous
top-on carrots, curly kale and the like. Around a dozen stalls in all
at this time of year, covering everything from organic meats and
cheeses to baked goods. Sign up at the gate for the weekly email
newsletter to find out who’s coming next week.
BEST BUY Our top tip at the moment is to head for the Hand-Picked Shellfish Co,
which sells rare finds such as sand dabs (£1 each). Similar to small
lemon sole, these delicious flatfish can be fried in butter and
garnished with capers and lemon juice. Other things to look out for?
There are still plenty of apples, with Chegworth Valley having the best
selection; and game birds, now at the very tail end of their season,
such as a brace of partridges from Manor Farm Game at only £6.50.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? Disappointing hot food: only one vendor selling lamb or beef burgers in
dull buns for £2.50. And, with so much brilliant but occasionally
pricey produce, there is always the prospect of spending 40 notes on a
weekly shop before you’ve even realised it. Guy Dimond
Wimbledon
Farmers’ Market, Wimbledon Park First School, Havana Rd, SW19 8EJ
(www.lfm.org.uk) Wimbledon Park tube/bus 156. Open Sat 10am-1pm.
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| Greenwich Market Food Court |
Greenwich Market Food Court
A vintage cobblestone market crawling with impressed tourists, Starbucks cup-toting couples and weary Greenwich locals who just want to get their weekly olive fix. The
market lost its roof because of flying bombs in 1944; the current arts
and crafts market was born in 1985; and the food court was established
in 1999.
BEST BUY Exotic food to sate the
gluttonous. Find freshly made sushi on the Tobiko stall, as well as
baklava and Turkish meze from Sultan’s Delight. Make sure you sample
the Caribbean dishes from Hot Flavours. We also love giant, moist cupcakes from The Real Baking Company, done up in pastels.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? The
closest to fresh meat, fruit or veg is the M&S down the road. Visit
this market to eat, until the new fresh fruit and vegetable market
opens on May 7.
Greenwich Market Food Court
(www.greenwichmarket.net) Cutty Sark/Island Gardens DLR or Greenwich
DLR/rail. Open Sat, Sun 9.30am-5.30pm.
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West
Chiswick Farmers' and Fine Foods Market
Situated in the courtyard of Grove Park Farm, this is a secret enclave of Chiswick’s hungry darlings. Many visitors enjoy a cuppa, supplied by the Masonian Bowls Club inside the adjacent Grove Park Farm House, before hitting the stalls. The Dukes Meadows Trust set up the market in September 2000, and the rent coming from the stalls is fed back into the trust to fund restoration works for Dukes Meadow and Riverside Lands recreation grounds.
BEST BUYS As its name suggests, both fab local produce from the farmers and artisanal goods made by dedicated gourmands. The former includes Ringden Farm (top-class apple juices) and reliable Ted’s Veg; the latter includes versatile spice pastes from Mighty Spice. Outsider Tart also attends weekly with its moreish cakes, muffins and scones.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? The only public transport to reach it is a bus which comes every 20 minutes on Sundays.
Chiswick Farmers’ and Fine Foods Market, Grove Park Farm House, Market Drive, W4 2RX (www.dukesmeadowstrust.org/ www.farmersmarket.html). Richmond tube/rail then 190 bus or E3 bus. Sun 10am-2pm.
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| Notting Hill Farmers' Market |
Notting Hill Farmers’ Market
Notting Hill might not seem the most appealing place to visit on a Saturday, but this market is only a short walk from the tube in the opposite direction from the tourist hordes descending on Portobello Road. It’s hidden away in a car park behind Waterstone’s, and is a place of Narnia-esque proportions once you find the elusive entrance. It’s been running since September 1999, shortly after Islington Farmers’ Market was established in the north. Much of the produce is from farmers hailing from Essex, Kent and Surrey, and you’ll be hard pressed not to find what you need in terms of excellent, well-sourced local food, particularly at this time of year when crops are at their peak. Expect to see cavolo nero (black Tuscan cabbage), broad beans, yellow and purple French beans and courgette flowers, from producers including Perry Court Farm.
BEST BUY For lazybones, chicken soup bags ready for the pot from Clare’s Organics.
THEN WHAT? Avoid the crowds and walk up Kensington Park Road (parallel to Portobello Road) and head for Books for Cooks (4 Bleinheim Crescent, W11 1NN; 020 7221 1992) – the perfect place to find recipes for your purchases.
Notting Hill Farmers’ Market, car park behind Waterstone’s, access via Kensington Place at junction of Kensington Church St, W8 (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org.uk) Notting Hill Gate tube or 12, 27, 28, 52, 70, 94, 328 bus. Open Sat 9am-1pm.
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| Partridges Food Market |
Partridges Food Market
A food market outside a fine food store may seem absurd, but the stalls that plant themselves in front of Partridges each Saturday offer dozens of edibles and artisan goods you wouldn’t be able to get inside. This impressive market has come a long way from its early years as a tentative project hatched in October 2005 when only a handful of stalls took part. Now there are some 150 speciality food producers at the market regularly, selling hot and cold food, cheeses (finds include a truffle brie), fresh shellfish, breads and more. One of our favourites, Crumbs & Doilies, which relocated from the Brick Lane Sunday UpMarket, does a roaring trade in decorated cupcakes with rotating flavours of the month; June was fragrant Earl Grey (made with tea sourced from fellow stallholder Tiger Spring Tea); this month it’s honey and lavender. Rustic pâtés from Patchwork are always a delight – its own-made chicken liver, elderflower and Godminster elderflower vodka is summer in a pâté (who would have thought?).
BEST BUY A rare Feng Huang Dan Cong (Phoenix Oolong tea) from Tiger Spring Tea – this particular high-grade leaf from Guangdong province of China has a light, smoky and slightly peachy scent.
THEN WHAT? A Chelsea girl itinerary is the only way to go – a Kings Road shopping spree followed by dinner at Tom's Kitchen (27 Cale St, SW3 3QP; 020 7349 0202)
Partridges Food Market Duke of York Square, SW3 4LY
(www.partridges.co.uk/foodmarket) Sloane Square or South Kensington tube.
Open Sat 10am-4pm.
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| South Kensington scallops |
South Kensington
Located in a side street near cafés and boutiques, it’s mostly patronised by shoppers carrying wicker baskets and couples with tiny dogs or kids – or both. It’s London Farmers’ Markets' newest offering – it began this year on May 10 and has already attracted a modest following. The local borough has pedestrianised Bute Street every weekend for the market.
BEST BUY The first thing you’ll see (or indeed sniff) is The Parsons Nose’s sizzling sausages – grab a bap, bag some pork and
nettle or gluten-free links, then head to Edgebank Organics for a chilled cup of raspberry, strawberry or elderflower juice. They also do luscious fruit-packed jams. Millets Farm is doing a brisk trade in England’s finest – for £6 you can pick and mix any three of their products: freshly cut asparagus, punnets of juicy strawberries and award-winning apple juices.
CAVEAT EMPTOR? You’ll need to ring London Farmers’ Market to find out which producers are attending each weekend – we couldn’t find the information anywhere.
South Kensington Farmers’ Market, Bute St, SW7 3EX (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org.uk) South Kensington tube. Open Sat 9am-1pm.
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17 comments
The old and traditional Ridley Road market in Dalston, Hackney has not received a mention. Perhaps, because vegetables and friut bought in bowls for £1 is not trendy, there is little organic available -- usually bananas and eggs -- but there is atmosphere. Music wise it is possible to hear soul, sacred, rock and rap during the day. Towards clearing up time Arabic/Turkish sounds and the fishmonger who calls the seagulls down to eat leftovers. A diverse market selling everything from pots, material, incense and most foods. Check out the fabulous fabric cave towards the east end of the market.
I enjoy the relatively new markets and have supported Spitafields organic stalls for over 10 years but Ridley Road should not be ignored. Best days Friday and Saturday but it is open from Monday; there are more stalls later in the week.
Re North End Road: I've been going there for five years and not had that problem. Thanks for the warning though. As with most markets, it's all about being judicious and picking the best from each stall. And about getting to know the traders, I suppose. There are some stalls on the market I would definitely avoid and some which are brilliant - each to their own, I guess.
North End Road market? Only if you don't mind stuff that's a bit ropey. It's only market - at home or abroad - where I have ever actually fallen victim to that trick where you choose one and then they give you another (older) one from round the back of the stall. Don't bother. Or pay attention, one of the two.
Please do not forget Deptford market, with its amazingly fresh veg and fruit stalls, incredible fabric and bric-a-brac bargains, and of course the fabulous Housewives Cash and Carry!
Don't forget about the great market on North End Road in Fulham. It's a proper London market, none of yer fancy organic stuff, just good quality fruit and veg. I go there every week for my whole week's shop and it's brilliant. Gets a bit hectic on a Saturday though.
What about Acton Market on The Mount/King St. Acton W3 9NW? With some food stalls run by the London Farmers' Market people, the Acton Market has a great selection of hot and cold food. The Farmers' Market is open every Saturday from 9am until 1pm. (www.lfm.org.uk) and the whole Acton Market is open from 10am until 5pm on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. visit our website at www.actonmarket.co.uk. Why not join us for the Acton Food Festival on September 5, 6 and 7th from 12-7pm. All kinds of world food, live music and children's activities.
Thanks this is a great review but minor correction, Broadway market was researched funded and created by Broadway Market Traders (not Tenants) & Residents Association who still operate it, they work in partnership with Hackney Council in their role as Regulators...! It was the local people who wanted a farmer and Producers market along side tradition designers makers, collectors and some old time traders. This market really is for the people by the people. Ps you should check out violets new line in Little biscuits like scrummy Oero's yum
Exmouth Market Shopper - not. sadly Islington Council didn't renew the license to trade to the organiser of the new Exmouth market -one of the founders and manager of Broadway market- Exmouth was run both Friday and Saturday for a year and was building fantastically as a Broadway market did, Islington have now turned it into a hot food lunch stop. sadly the local residents and real food shoppers all have lost out.
Don't forget that there is a nifty, modest sized farmers market behind the Palmers Green train station. Excellent fish, bread and local veg, along with some stuff from further south (eg Isle of Wight Garlic and tomatoes), and more. Worth a go if you live near by! Also, I have just found out there is a farmers market Sundays at Ally Pally - haven't checked it out yet, so I don't know about variety of produce for sale. Anyone out there know about it?
Hi All, I'm visiting family and friends next month and would love to check out a farmers market. Staying near St. Pancras. Love Borough Market, is there anything else similar nearby? All info greatly received.
We’ve taken down the entry for Exmouth Market, as there seems to be some dispute at the moment about its status. Kitty, you’ll be pleased to see Broadway Market has been added. It’s in the nature of the (organic) beast that details about such things change frequently and without notice, which is why we want users of this site to let us know when things have changed, and to make constructive criticisms.
The Time Out team
How can you list the best food markets and not include Borough Market and Broadway Market in London Fields, Hackney??! The former an institution, the latter a great place for all things fresh - and the best samosas and vietnamese coffee in London!
On Saturday, April 5, 2008 I decided to venture to Exmouth Market after perusing this article. The article specifically states that the street market is open on Saturday from 9 am to 4 pm, as does the website link provided. Unfortunately, the information is inaccurate, which we only learned after trekking out there. We arrived at 1pm on Saturday--there was no street market. A later web search brought up http://www.exmouth-market.com/, which states that the market is only open on Fridays now. It does seem that perhaps the author did not do all the necessary research in writing this article, and I would be hesitant in relying on any of the information provided.
There is definitely no need to make this a personal issue but Time Out should realise the impact an erroneous statement such as the above could have. Closer attention is called for.
As a precaution, do not take the previous reader comments into consideration too much. I thought comments on this page were supposed to deal with the markets and the foods being served; not act as personal attacks on the author of the article.
Anyways, this is a review: Charmaine Mok would have [and indeed, has] done their research. Even if something he/she wrote does not settle well with what you believe, it is no reason to say disparaging things regarding Mok's journalism itself.
Personally, I thought the review was articulate, well written, and informative.