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  • London’s best food markets

  • By Charmaine Mok

  • London’s your oyster when it comes to finding mouthwatering produce. Charmaine Mok picks the city’s best (and most easily accessible) food markets that specialise in quality, well-sourced wares

    London’s best food markets

    Vernal abundance at Cabbages and Frocks © Natalie Pecht


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    Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market
    Incredibly chi-chi, but not without a bit of eccentricity – sure there are lots of straw hats, tea dresses and wicker baskets, but on our visit a jovial old man was entertaining the market goers with a hearty song played on his battered accordion. Suddenly, it felt like Paris.

    Pimlico Road is a six-year-old market, though Orange Square was once host to roaming sheeps and donkeys as well as a local vegetable market way back in the eighteenth century. In 1764, a young Mozart penned his first symphony nearby at the tender age of eight. A statue of him, in all his frock-coated glory, stands proudly in the midst of the square.

    BEST BUY There’s a higher concentration of fresh fruit and vegetables, meat and baked goods here, though notable vendors include Kingcup Farm , which deserves kudos for its unusual pickings (radish pods, edible flowers, leek flowers), and EFJ Gould for an interesting selection of cheddars. The jury’s still out on its Marmite cheese, though. Popina’s elderflower-and-gooseberry tart is bang on season and delicious to boot.

    CAVEAT EMPTOR? The square is a perfect spot for winding down, with its tree-shaded benches dotted about the area – but there’s disappointingly little hot food (apart from 12 Green Acres’ sausage baps) to tuck into. No wonder most, at a loss, seem to retreat to Daylesford Organic across the street instead.
    Pimlico Road Farmers’ Market, Orange Square, corner of Pimlico Rd and Ebury St, SW1 (020 7833 0338/www.lfm.org.uk) Victoria tube/rail or Sloane Square tube. Open Sat 10am-2pm.

    Cabbages & Frocks Market Feature continues

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    Started by Angela Cash, a food-loving fashionista and the mind behind London Fashion Designer Sales, this Marylebone market draws in the crowds with its original fashion as well as mouthwatering grub. More of an eating destination than neighbouring Marylebone Farmers’ Market, the whimsical cobbled courtyard hosts stalls selling anything from own-made macaroons to Jamaican rum cakes, and bespoke jewellery and shoes to colourful aprons. Visitors who have a sweet tooth are particularly well catered for here. On the hunt for delicate truffles? You’ll find some unusual ones here to tickle the tastebuds – Naturally Indulgent is the market’s resident Willy Wonka, whipping up curious combinations such as saffron and sichuan pepper; porcini mushroom and bacon; or seasonal flavours such as cherry.

    BEST BUY Naturally Indulgent’s umeboshi (pickled Japanese apricot), vodka and sesame truffles are a sweet-and-sour delight. Also, Gindo – the market’s resident sausage and meat connoisseur – has recently introduced uncooked organic chicken, each with five different stuffings (minced veal, thyme and sausage to name a few).

    THEN WHAT? Parade your new threads down Marylebone High Street, armed with baskets brimming full of flavoured olive oils and shortbread biscuits. Then stop for a late lunch at The Providores & Tapa Room (109 Marylebone High St, NW1 5LT; 020 7935 6175) – if you haven’t stuffed yourself silly already.
    Cabbages & Frocks Market, St Marylebone Parish Church Grounds, Marylebone High St, W1 (www.cabbagesandfrocks.co.uk) Baker St tube. Open Sat 11am-5pm.

    WhitecrossFoodMarket_Alys Tomlinson_crop.jpg
    Grab lunch at Whitecross Street Food Market

    Whitecross Street Food Market
    This market started a year ago as a monthly operation, but the wait became unbearable for regulars – so it now operates weekly. The workaholics of Clerkenwell and Hoxton descend upon this energetic food market every Thursday and Friday for a slap-up lunch on the go. Follow your nose, or gravitate towards the vans with snaking queues – always indicators of quality grub. A world of cuisine means everyone is catered for. Luardo’s, purveyor of Latin-American street food, is a good bet, with fluffy burritos that may rival some of Mexico’s best offerings; keep an eye out for their mint-green vintage Citroën van. Another hit with regulars is Mario and Carol’s Italian food stall, where an order of classic Roman-style grub comes with friendly banter from the opinionated yet charming Mario. Grab some olive oils or pesto, or choose from a selection of fruit and vegetables.

    BEST BUY For a twee treat, buy your friends an egg carton full of vanilla-rich mini fairy cakes from Netty Poskitt.

    THEN WHAT? Waddle off sated, then pop into Bread & Honey (205 Whitecross St, EC1; 020 7253 4455) – one of London’s finest streetwear shops – and realise you can’t fit into anything after your gluttonous adventure. Afterwards, drown your sorrows with a cappuccino at Coffee@ several doors down.
    Whitecross Weekly Food Market, Whitecross St, EC1Y (020 7378 0422/www.whitecrossstreetmarket.co.uk) Old St tube/rail. Open Thur, Fri 11am-5pm.

    Berwick Street Market

    It lies between seedy Soho strip joints at one end and the elegant restaurant Yauatcha at the other. Bellows can be heard all round from the stallholders, vying for the attention of the harried denizens of Soho. The market is one of London’s oldest, going back as far as 1778, when people started (illegally) displaying their wares on the pavement outside their shops. In 1883, the occupant of 101 Berwick Street had action taken against him by the vestry (church council) for ‘placing out baskets and boards containing vegetables’ and obstructing the street. It wasn’t until 1892 that the vestry officially recognised it as a proper market.

    BEST BUY
    Besides the usual fruit and veg, knick-knacks and knickers, there are flowers and fresh seafood.

    CAVEAT EMPTOR? Berwick Street seems in steep decline – sadly, the number of stalls in this once-bustling market has shrunk, and the quality of produce on sale is now usually sub-supermarket.
    Berwick Street Market, Berwick St, W1. Piccadilly Circus tube. Open Mon-Sat 9am-6pm.

    Food_marylebonefarmersmarket2008_CREDIT_Boris Baggs.jpg
    Marylebone Farmers' Market

    Marylebone Farmers’ Market
    Sunday morning sees Marylebone mums and Waitrose types who aim to get their weekly shop done before a posh coffee and croissant on the nearby high street. Part of the recent regeneration of Marylebone High Street under the auspices of landlord Howard de Walden Estates, this relative newbie’s been running in a car park since June 2003.

    BEST BUY Classic French nosh from Madame Gautier, or stop by Downland Produce for a portion of their whole hog roast.

    CAVEAT EMPTOR?
    Get too distracted by the pretty boutiques on Marylebone High Street and you’ll miss the market; clearer signs would be handy.
    Marylebone Farmers’ Market, Cramer St car park, off Marylebone High St, W1 (www.lfm.org.uk) Bond St tube or Baker St tube/rail. Open Sun 10am-2pm.

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20 comments

  1. Posted by Exmouth Market shopper--NOT on 08 Apr 2008 00:41

    On Saturday, April 5, 2008 I decided to venture to Exmouth Market after perusing this article. The article specifically states that the street market is open on Saturday from 9 am to 4 pm, as does the website link provided. Unfortunately, the information is inaccurate, which we only learned after trekking out there. We arrived at 1pm on Saturday--there was no street market. A later web search brought up http://www.exmouth-market.com/, which states that the market is only open on Fridays now. It does seem that perhaps the author did not do all the necessary research in writing this article, and I would be hesitant in relying on any of the information provided.

  2. Posted by Laura on 02 Apr 2008 18:01

    There is definitely no need to make this a personal issue but Time Out should realise the impact an erroneous statement such as the above could have. Closer attention is called for.

  3. Posted by Objective reader on 31 Mar 2008 01:26

    As a precaution, do not take the previous reader comments into consideration too much. I thought comments on this page were supposed to deal with the markets and the foods being served; not act as personal attacks on the author of the article.
    Anyways, this is a review: Charmaine Mok would have [and indeed, has] done their research. Even if something he/she wrote does not settle well with what you believe, it is no reason to say disparaging things regarding Mok's journalism itself.
    Personally, I thought the review was articulate, well written, and informative.

  4. Posted by kate masters on 29 Mar 2008 13:07

    i would also advise readers to not take charmaine moks journalism too seriously. i have also seen and bought fresh groceries at greenwich. Alas it seems she is more intent on writng negative things about places she knows very little about to boost her own writing credentials than the truth. its the secont time in one week ive seen a display like this. in another piece she was complaining about fillet steak not being fatty....

  5. Posted by Greenwich Market Shopper on 22 Mar 2008 19:50

    Beware your trust in these rather blase reviews.
    As a shopper and friend of more than 1 stall at greenwich, I can advocate that there are indeed some very fine GROCERIES to be bought in the food court.
    Did Charmaine Mok even visit the market?? Dos M&S require her plug?? I suggest Charmaine thinks they do , and that small independent traders eeking out a living by selling fresh produce at markets deserve to wilt under her words...poor journalism. Maybe a few simple words about her journalism will affect her income like a few incorrect details could affect the traders that don't seem to matter in her review.

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