Shopping

Once the hub of London’s alternative scene, attracting cool cats and rockers from all over the world, Camden is perhaps now struggling to keep up with the times. But in spite of fires and refurbishments, the markets here work hard to cling to their rebellious roots.

Among the sea of T-shirts, corsets and chintz there are still some treats to be found in the caverns of vintage clothes, antiques, retro glasses, chandeliers, crafty goods, furniture, second-hand books and bric-a-brac, all served in style by passionate stallholders. And Camden’s reputation as the capital’s subculture hangout still attracts thousands of tourists looking for a photo with a punk. On weekends, they mingle with gangs of sulky teens buying things to shock their parents and musicians looking for their big break.

Go later in the afternoon during the week when you can have a quiet mooch around the shops before retiring to a pub to watch some bands. There are brand new toilets in the basement of the Stables Market and another set on the bridge of Middle Yard. Feature continues

Camden’s top stalls
Black Rose
The Black Rose is a Camden institution. Once the biggest and best goth shop in town, it was forced to downsize due to hefty rent increases, but it is still kitting out London’s alternative scenesters. These days, it stocks less classic gothic garb and more rockabilly and burlesque items: corsets, stockings, fetish-wear, accessories and wigs, plus a great range of menswear including T-shirts and work shirts.
Shop 26, Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH (www.myspace.com/blackroselondon). 11am-6pm daily.

A Dandy in Aspic
The duo who runs these two shops are nothing if not dedicated. The units are packed out with handpicked retro finds from the ’50s, ’60s and ’70s to supply authentic ska, mod, jazz and rock ’n’ roll get-up, with an emphasis on classic menswear. For Dandy’s owners, this is about embracing a whole retro lifestyle and culture, not just dressing up.
Unit D13, Horse Tunnel Market and Unit 566, Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH (7485 3979). Noon-6pm Mon-Fri; 11am-6.30pm Sat, Sun.

Brian’s Classic Luggage etc
Brian has manned his stall in Camden every weekend for more than 25 years, selling an eclectic mix of beautiful old suitcases, cameras, sportswear, telephones, typewriters and anything else nice he can lay his hands on. Having moved all over the market, Brian has seen it all – from the makeshift punk recording studios in the old Gin House to the drunken antics of a certain Miss Winehouse.
Unit D38, Stables Market, Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH (07973 445537/07757 144574). 10am-7pm Sat, Sun.

Trader tips
Don’t miss…
Nothing sums up the spirit of Camden like a piercing, so if you truly want to live the dream, be brave and head to Cold Steel (238 Camden High Street, NW1 8QS, 7267 7970). They have been puncturing flesh for more than 17 years, so you couldn’t be in better hands!

Things to avoid
The tidal wave of excitable tourists and teenagers outside Camden Town tube (approach instead from Chalk Farm); strangers mumbling ‘Skunk, weed, hash…’; getting a part of your body tattooed on impulse; Suggs.

Refuel at…
Yumchaa is an oasis of calm above the market madness. Choose one of their vast selection of teas and have a well-deserved piece of handmade cake.
Yumchaa, 91/92 Camden Lock Place, Upper Walkway, West Yard, NW1 8AF (www.yumchaa.co.uk). Camden Town tube. 9.30am-6pm daily.

Camden Market and Camden Stables Market, Camden High St, turning into Chalk Farm Rd, NW1 8AH. Camden Town or Chalk Farm tube. 10.30am-6pm Mon-Fri; 10am-6pm Sat, Sun.