Offbeat antiques and bohemian chic
The initial stroll from Notting Hill Station past the pastel-fronted terraces won’t prepare you for the seemingly endless line of vendors along Portobello Road. More than 2,000 specialist antique dealers are squeezed tightly into any available space, while avid enthusiasts bargain-hunt, camera-laden tourists look for that blue door (from the film ‘Notting Hill’) and jazz quartets all help to create a pleasing intimacy.
Push on past the meagre pickings after Elgin Crescent and explore the fashion market under the Westway flyover. Best visited on a less-frantic Friday morning, it’s here you’ll find fashionistas and frighteningly trendy teens delving through troves of prized vintage, boutique fashion and retro memorabilia. Otherwise, you’ll find them posing in the Portobello Star, the newly refurbished traditional-boozer-meets-chic-cocktail-hangout.
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Portobello’s top stalls
Decadent vintage
You’ll soon see why this vintage clothing stall is called Decadent, lavishly decorated as it is with a few too many feather boas, but look past the fluff to find a wealth of beautifully handcrafted one-of-a-kind pieces. Based under the Westway (their stall often moves to different pitches), the feisty mother-daughter duo who run it specialise in selling a flock of heavily sequinned 1920s flapper dresses and bold 1980s prom gowns, all for bafflingly affordable prices.
Portwine Arcade
Set back from the throng of street traders, nestled next to the Portobello Star, is a signless crescent arcade harbouring unique and thrilling trade. Set apart from its sensible and starker older brother, the nearby Admiral Vernon Antique Market, Portwine exudes a warm familiarity with its busy interior, selling everything from musical instruments to headwear – with a sign urging you to ‘Try on for Fun!’.
Military stall
Situated opposite Portobello Green under the Westway, masked martial mannequins lure you inside this shop-like stall. On parade here are the sharp, masculine lines of original, pre-1914 jackets (starting at £110) and excellent historical footwear and accessories – and the wartime brogues are bang on-trend.
Trader tips
Don’t miss…
Don’t
cut Portobello short at the Westway; continue up until you hit Golborne
Road. This is where you’ll find the real bargains away from the masses
(a pair of Gina shoes were spotted on the day we visited). It’s lined by
eccentric second-hand interiors stalls, and a custard tart from Lisboa Patisserie will see that you never queue for a cupcake again.
Things to avoid
Arriving without plenty of cash: the only cashpoint along the main drag is always inaccessible due to outrageous queues. Similarly, don’t bother entering the Market Bar on a Saturday if you’re in need of a quiet sit-down away from the hordes outside – you’ll find it mobbed.
Refuel at…
Despite the guaranteed queue outside the Hummingbird Bakery , many travel far and wide for one of its coveted cupcakes. Grab a quick organic bite mid-rummage at Roly’s café in Portobello Green and don’t miss Ottolenghi on Ledbury Road for an upmarket salad selection.
Portobello Rd, W11 (www.portobelloroad.co.uk). Notting Hill or Ladbroke Grove tube. 8am-6.30pm Mon-Wed; 8am-1pm Thur; 8am-6.30pm Fri, Sat.
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7 comments
I'd like to qualify my above comment by saying that (thanks to Time Out) we had to go in the Star on a Tuesday night to claim a free cocktail recently. It wasn't full of posers and sloanes (just some kids) and so we got to meet the owner Jake, who is a lovely man and mixes a mean cocktail. All of which made me feel bad about slagging it off above. I had one of Jake's own creations; the Sally Cinnamon and it is really delicious. So - Saturday night (like anywhere) is busy and noisy but I'm eating humble pie and saying its a great place for cocktail, particularly if you get 5 mins with Jake.
As for Pauline's comment above, it gets busier as the week heads towards the weekend; Friday is a good day to come. Not too busy and still quite a bit going on. Can you guess that I live here?
What about Mimi Fifi? It sells amazing vintage toys with rockabilly/ rock n roll jewelery and accessories plus other amazing finds - there's always great music playing and you'll leave feeling all nostalgic :)
It's on Pembridge road just on the walk down to or from Notting Hill Gate stn.
Intoxica Records isn't to be missed either.
is it worth having a look during the week?? Or is there basically nothing there?
Thanks
My top tip would be to seek out the 'Rosa Bloom' stall in the Portobello Green Market under the Westway flyover. She's a new arrival at the market on saturdays, her stall sells a gorgeous selection of burlesque accessories and treasures, all of which she designs herself. There are beautiful sequinned pasties (like nipple tassles but without the tassles!) and simply stunning handmade fascinators (she makes to order), plus a range of really unsual silver jewellery.
If you have to come on a Saturday, come early (traders set up from 8am) or come later (5pm onwards). If you come at all, come with patience; its hard to get anywhere fast. Luckily that means you can make plenty of stops along the way for food and drink. Foodwise there is a great Ghanian food stall and the Mexican under the westway (El Camino) is cheap and good. Although its mentioned above, forget the Portobello Star, it's full of posers and sloanes (yes, they do still exist) and it's expensive. The Gold, just up the hill from there is more rock n roll, locals go there, the atmosphere is usually lively and it feels more like a proper pub. Though if you dont like any of those, Google 'Portobello Rd pub' and take your pick as there are plenty to choose from.
Great guitar shop and reggae dealer on all saints road.
Don't forget the kids clothes shop, SASTI in the Portobello Green Arcade. Their stuff is amazing; and most of it is exclusive. We have to wash my little boy's shark print shirt when he's asleep, so that he can wear it every day!