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  1. © Rob Greig
    © Rob Greig
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How to make jewellery from seafood

The Museum of London’s new show highlights the creativity of the capital’s coolest jewellers. We go to find out what crustaceans have got to do with bling

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‘The thing with langoustines is that you have to buy them live, and then work out how to kill them. Last time I went to Billingsgate, I had to cycle home with one bobbing around in my rucksack.’ Noemi Klein is a jeweller, not a chef, but her work is inspired by a fascination with the ‘incredible geometry and constructions you find in nature’ – so much so that her gold rings are cast from moulds of langoustines and her bracelets from crabs’ legs.

She is one of seven incredible jewellery designers celebrated in a new exhibition at the Museum of London. A museum-based showcase of jewellery sounds like it could be about as compelling as a trip to H Samuel, but this one is quite different.  Not just because of the jewellers participating – from the legendary Duffy, a caveman of a chap with waist-length hair who sculpts tremendous skull rings, to Frances Wadsworth- Jones, who’s made her name by beading exquisite brooches in the form of a pigeon shit – but because it reveals the unique ways in which they work, and brings to life their often eccentric influences.

Klein has created a whopping great maximal version of one of her delicate langoustine rings, with a cluster of crustacean limbs the size of a fist, while Rachel Boston, whose work features antlers and toucans’ beaks, has created dioramas of woodlands and landscapes for her little muses. Curators are often derided for organising fashion exhibitions when they could be focusing on ‘serious’ art. This is an event that suggests the two are not so very different.

Noemi Klein: how to make a crab into a ring

‘When shopping for langoustines and crabs, I look for very pronounced textures and gaps and prongs, so they cast well.’

‘The next step is back in my studio, to pour silicon around the limbs to make moulds. It’ll leave negative space where the crustacean was.’

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‘Then I fill the spaces with molten wax – I just melt a candle with a lighter. That creates wax parts, hopefully the replica of the original. A caster will then make a sand mould out of it, and pour liquid metal into that – the wax melts, then the metal hardens.’

‘Then I use a little sander to polish off the grains, to leave the jewellery smooth. At this point, I’ll set in any stones.’

Find out more at www.noemiklein.com

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