L & E Oyster Bar

Time Out says

Wed Oct 24 2012

L&E Oyster Bar channels the spirit of the sort of old-school oyster shack you might expect to find on a remote oceanfront highway. The place seats no more than 50, and they don’t take reservations. An illuminated sign on the wall announces the day’s haul of fresh oysters.

The best way to eat an oyster is, of course, raw. But if you like yours cooked, the kitchen here offers several options, the best of which is simply fried ($10). The classic oysters Rockefeller ($14)—a foursome cloaked in spinach, cream and cheese and grilled—was never a great idea in the first place, and it’s not been improved upon here. Better options: grilled Casino ($14), with butter, bacon and shallots, or a daily special like Tomahawk oysters with harissa.

Beyond the namesake bivalves, the rest of the menu is short and succinct: shrimp cocktail, steamed mussels, clam chowder (very good), French fries (excellent), plus a few standard salads and three or four entrées each night. The line-up changes constantly, but some recent standouts have included an excellent kanpachi tartare and a very reputable fried oyster po’boy ($16).

By Brad A. Johnson