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Siam Sunset

Critics' pick
Photograph: Jade Chang
Best brunch in LA: Siam Sunset (Thailand)
Hollywood

Get here early morning, and you’ll catch the last wave of Thai clubkids in their party gear; later the crowd shifts to their parents stopping in before work, and their grandparents lingering with friends over coffee. There will also be a sprinkling of Jonathan Gold devotees—the Pulitzer Prize–winning food writer is a fan of this diner, which is tucked in a seedy-looking motel parking lot. No matter who’s eating, at least half the tables will have a little dish of Chinese doughnuts, square pillows of lightly fried dough, to be dipped in creamy condensed milk. Follow yours with a big bowl of jok, a rich, satisfying rice porridge sprinkled with white pepper, fresh slivered ginger and scallions, all of which elevates the earthy catfish buried at the bottom of the bowl. Take note: Cash only.

Venue name: Siam Sunset
Address: 5265 Sunset Blvd
Los Angeles

Venue phone: 323-467-8935
Opening hours: Mon-Sat 6am-10pm; Sun 6am-4pm
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