The new Hotel de las Letras laughs in the face of the current hotel vogue for teak and slate, and plumps instead for bold paintwork in red, orange and purples, with literary quotations strewn across its walls. It does this with remarkable aplomb, thanks to stylish furniture and well-designed rooms. Bathrooms are huge, with stacks of fluffy towels and luxury toiletries, and even standard rooms come with balconies. Downstairs is a comfortable spa and gym, along with a small library with free internet access. The ground floor bar hums with bright young things day and night, but the hotel's hip credentials play second fiddle to sheer comfort. A gem.