With its Berber rugs and intricate tiling, Al-Jayma is a microcosm of Morocco within Madrid. Sit back on the floor cushions to nibble on houmous and falafel, share one of their sumptuous tagines (try the lamb with dates), dig into a mountain of couscous or feast on the vegetarian options. There are also tables, of course, for longer-limbed folk. Carafes of the house wine are cheap but good, and the mint teas are typically sweet. The shock comes with the bill and how little you pay for good food and atmosphere.