The prawns are the thing here, consumed in rosy platefuls by the uptown shoppers crowded round the horseshoe-shaped bar. Always full, with a loyal...
C/Goya 70This garden atrium, dripping in ivy and gaudy chandeliers, is a festive place to stick your fork in one of 28 varieties of paella. But it's the porrón - a...
C/Moratín 22Serving chocolate and churros (deep-fried batter sticks) to the city night and day since 1894, this veritable institution has had to introduce a ticketing...
Pasadizo de San Ginés 5It's red, it's urban, it's aspirational. Colby Urban is the flagship of a string of cool eateries and chilled-out cafés with a concept. We're not sure what...
C/Fuencarral 52The toothsome risottos and own-made pastas here are a godsend for Italian gastronomes. Don't miss the risotto with mushrooms, parmesan and white-truffle...
C/Echegaray 27The Conache look is casually hip, even though the bright lighting and fruit machines keep scenesters at bay. The food, however, is absolutely where it's at....
Plaza de San Ildefonso
Despite the address, De 1911 actually sits on the tiny pedestrian street C/Coloreros, on which it has tables. It is indeed from 1911, but is a curious mix...
Plazuela de San Ginés 5Delfos is here to prove that Greek food is not all kebabs and salads. In taverna-style surroundings, with just-on-the-right-side-of-tack Greek details -...
Cuesta de Santo Domingo 14
A perennial favourite with seemingly everybody; from those looking for a peaceful morning coffee on the leafy Plaza de la Paja to those meeting up for a few...
Costanilla de San Andrés 14A minimalist and sexy film-rental café spinning all-day chill-out sounds (and occasional techno). As well as a fabulous selection of movies, there are...
C/San Marcos 37This den of cool is located at a strategic crosssroads, with bigger-than-average cocktails that make up for the aloof staff. Watch the real world stroll by...
C/Gravina 5Don Paco, now in his 80s, is a former bullfighter from Jérez, and the Andalucian matador in him is charmingly apparent in his 45-year-old restaurant. With...
C/Caballero de Gracia 36An airy little café to grab a quick and delicious dosa, currently getting rave reviews.
C/Libertad 17With its deep colours and lavishly set tables, El 26 de Libertad is over-the-top elegance bordering on the camp. But not too fine to be fun, and a favourite...
C/Libertad 26A sleepy, traditional bar during the week, it hots up at weekends, and drinkers often drift on to the pavements. A peculiar speciality is the rosca, a sort...
C/Almendro 13