So vast that you'll always find a seat, this Asturian cider bar has the look - bare bricks and long wooden tables - to go with the regional tapas. Natural...
C/Hileras 17El Estragón's underlying concept appears to be 'vegetarian food for meat-eaters', and thus there is no shortage of soya 'meatballs', 'hamburgers' and so on....
Costanilla de San Andrés 10A relaxed place, with french windows opening on to the street in summer, marble-topped tables, faded yellow paintwork and art deco touches. A good selection...
C/Palma 64Frequented by an over-50 crowd and decorated in a sombre olive-green, this old-school Mediterranean restaurant still ranks high with more discriminating...
C/General Gallegos 1Excitingly for El Puchero, red gingham is making a comeback after 30 years in the cold. Here it had never gone away - in tablecloths, cushions, lampshades...
C/Larra 13
The world's oldest restaurant (with a signed Norris McWhirter certificate to prove it) is still coming up with the goods after nearly 300 years. For all its...
C/Cuchilleros 17Named after Victor Erice's seminal film, decorated with cinematic posters and popular with long-haired soulful types returning from the nearby Filmoteca....
C/Torrecilla del Leal 12Never less than rowdy, decorated in bullring ochre and bare brick, with flamenco on the sound system, El Tempranillo offers an impressive range of labels...
C/Cava Baja 38If you can actually make it through the door, order a beer or a cider and marvel at the hefty tapas that come with it - patatas bravas, jamón serrano,...
C/Infantas 30Under new ownership, and a notch hipper, 'Uncle Vinegar' has wines from around the country, board games and a few tapas: empanadas, gazpacho, goat's cheese...
C/San Carlos 6La Latina scenesters in sideburns and retro couture still flock to this three-storey bar/restaurant famous for its rooftop terraza. The food, a mixed array...
Plaza de la Cebada 11Smack in the middle of a street known as the epicentre of stout cocido-type cuisine is this incongruous and popular Italian eaterie - a sound alternative...
C/Cava Baja 19Estay's bright, air-conditioned interior, usually filled with baying young mothers heavily laden with shopping bags, does not immediately suggest...
C/Hermosilla 46With festive live piano accompaniment, this is the spot to try out specialities from one of Spain's least-known regions, Extremadura. It's both classy and...
C/Libertad 13
This is the first installation in what is bound to be a trend - it's fast food à la Ferran Adrià, still the hottest chef in Spain and originator of the...
C/Padre Damián 23