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Green eating and drinking in Manchester

Manchester never does things by halves. The city recently declared its intent to become Britain’s greenest and, with Manchester now an official Fairtrade city, the menu of organic, sustainable or veggie food has spread from hippy cafes to suburban delis and high-end eateries. Here are our picks of the best.

Love Saves the Day

A pioneer of regional food, Love Saves the Day has been serving up robust, good-for-you dishes since 1999 (minus a temporary closure in 2005). Its Deansgate deli sells everything from Cheetham Hill-based Joseph Holt beers to Port of Lancaster smoked fish, while the smaller outlet on Thomas Street sticks to sarnies, cakes, soups and coffees. Homemade ready meals supplement a huge range of top quality wines. The Deansgate-based bistro runs regular themed nights – a recent local produce menu featured baked mushrooms (fresh from the fields of Lancashire), Lakeland lamb hotpot and herbs from Chat Moss.

Love Saves the Day Deli & Bistro 345 Deansgate, Manchester, M3 4LG (834 2266/www.lovesavestheday.com). Mon & Tue, 8am-7pm, Wed & Fri 8am-8pm, Thur 8am-9pm, Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 10am-4pm.
Café Vox Pop, Thomas Street, M4 1NA (839 0470). Mon-Sat 9am-8pm, 11am-5pm, Sun.

Greens

A long-running vegetarian restaurant that’s good enough to satisfy even the most hardened of carnivores. Regularly packed out (book well in advance or risk being turned away), this West Didsbury-based eatery was established by meat-loving chef Simon Rimmer. It’s since gone on to win a number of awards, and quite rightly.

Greens Lapwing Lane, Didsbury, M20 2NT (434 4259/www.greensrestaurant.net). Mon & Sat 5.30pm-10.30pm, Tue-Fri noon-2pm & 5.30pm-10.30pm, Sun 12.30pm-3.30pm.

As Nature Intended

As Nature Intended's younger customers

This organic supermarket created a few waves on the otherwise calm seas of sustainable produce when it opened its Northern outpost in Hale this summer. The London-based chain has been criticised by locals for flying in goods rather than sourcing them locally. But with 97% of its produce certified organic, the shop has to get its goods where it can and, as Managing Director Caroline Gooding admits, that’s not always easy. ‘We try our best to get everything from the UK but whatever we sell has to be organic, and sometimes the quality of British produce just isn’t good enough. But we have created a new network of local suppliers and sell, for example, local beer and organic baby food.’ Whatever the convoluted ethics of selling organic food and drink, As Nature Intended is doing a roaring trade and looks set to open more stores soon.

As Nature Intended Ashley Road, Hale WA15 9SN (928 1719/www.asnatureintended.uk.com). Mon-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-5.30pm.

The Eighth Day

Manchester’s original healthfood store, The Eighth Day has traded on Oxford Road for as long as anyone can remember. Set up by a group of right-on idealists, it’s run as a co-operative and today has more organic, vegetarian and vegan food than you can shake a dreamcatcher at. From organic nuts, seeds and dried fruit to organic wine, eggs and bread, The Eighth Day has all the ingredients necessary for healthy living. But it’s not just about the food (though there is a basement café if you can’t bear to prepare your own meals): the co-operative sells an impressive range of chemical-free beauty products and one of the most extensive ranges of food supplements and herbal remedies in Manchester.

The Eighth Day Oxford Road, M1 7DU (273 4878/www.eighth-day.co.uk). Mon, Tue & Fri 8.30am - 5.30pm, Wed & Thur 8.30am-7pm, Sat 9.30am-5.30pm.

Isinglass

Stranded in the culinary wilderness that is Urmston, Isinglass is one of Manchester’s best restaurants. Using food grown and reared in the region, chef Lisa Walker sources her salad leaves from Chat Moss, courgettes from Cheshire and ice-cream from Dunham Massey. The simple menu is surprisingly good, showing what can be achieved with traditional English food and fresh ingredients.

Isinglass Flixton Road, Urmston, M41 5AB (749 8400/www.isinglassrestaurant.co.uk). Tue-Thur & Sun 6pm-9.30pm, 6pm-10pm Fri & Sat.

Fetish for Food

Set up by a former chef, this Prestwich-based deli and separate bistro specialises in organic and regional food. The deli stocks a dizzying array of goodies, from organic meat (bought direct from farms in Cheshire and Wales) to independently produced cheese. Eco purists might sniff at the distance some of the goods have travelled – chocolate from Belgium, chorizo from Spain – but the quality and integrity of the food on sale is unquestionable. ‘People are beginning to question where their food comes from,’ says proprietor Rowena Rose, a Crumpsall lass who worked as a chef in the US and Australia before returning home. ‘And we need to educate them as to what real food looks like. My organic veg is ugly, dirty and not at all uniform. But the flavour is there – it’s not been manufactured for the consumer but allowed to develop naturally.’ Down the road, a bistro gives punters a chance to try some of Rowena’s dishes.

Fetish for Food Delicatessen 430 Bury New Road, Prestwich, Manchester M25 1BD (798 5558/www.fetishforfood.com). Tues-Sat 10.30am-5pm.
Bistro 2 Church Lane, Prestwich, Manchester M25 1AJ (773 3366). Wed & Thur 1pm-3pm & 7pm-11pm, Fri & Sat 1pm-3pm & 7pm-Midnight, Sun 1pm-7pm.

Unicorn

Chorlton is fast becoming Manchester’s most food-loving suburb. New delis seem to spring up every other week to meet the demands of affluent Chorlton-ites who prefer to consume with a conscience. Despite the competition, the long-standing retailers remain the best. Unicorn is a vegan ‘superstore’ that’s been operating for over ten years, selling everything from dried fruits and pulses to wheat-free bread, organic wine and, of course, mountains of organic or regional fruit and veg. The great range of food – plus useful ‘what’s in season’ information boards – is occasionally spoiled by slow service and slightly sniffy staff, though this does seem to have improved of late. Across the road, the Barbakan sells baked-on-the-premises bread and cakes, while Arkadash stocks sweatshop free and organic clothes.

Unicorn Albany Road, Chorlton, M21 0BN (861 0010/www.unicorn-grocery.co.uk). Tue-Fri 9.30am-7pm, Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 11am-5pm.
Barbakan Continental Delicatessen Manchester Road, Chorlton, M21 9PW (881 7053/www.barbakan-deli.co.uk). Mon-Sat, 8.30am-5.30pm.
Arkadash Manchester Road, Chorlton, M21 9GA (881 9500/www.arkadash.co.uk). Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat 10am-6pm, Thur 10am-7pm, Sun 11am-4pm.

Earth Café

Another veggie establishment that’s been around for over a decade. Tucked away in the beautifully renovated basement of the Buddhist Centre, Earth consistently turns out good quality food that’s mostly organic, vegan or Fairtrade. Expect soups, savouries, veggie burgers, quiches and salads, a chef’s daily special – plus the occasional waft of incense from the Buddhist Centre’s meditation halls above. Hardy customers can imbibe organic wheatgrass shots, which are only marginally more palatable than a tequila slammer (though infinitely better for you, naturally).

Earth Café Turner Street, M4 1DZ (834 1996/www.earthcafe.co.uk). Tue-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat 10am-5pm.

Samphire

The former Nectar restaurant is another safe bet if you like your meals to come from local, organic or sustainable sources and, like Isinglass, the emphasis here is on no-nonsense British food. Rising gourmet star Ashley Clarke heads up the kitchens, while the menu is supplemented by a healthy number of organic wines and beers. Just don’t tell the green brigade that the courtyard out back is warmed by planet-destroying patio heaters…

Samphire Bistro & Bar Victoria Road, Hale, WA15 9AD (928 3000/www.nectarhale.com). Mon-Wed noon-2.30pm & 5.30pm-11pm, Thur & Fri 12.30pm-2.30pm & 5.30pm-11pm, Sat 10am-midnight, Sun 10am-3pm.

Piccadilly Gardens Farmers’ Market

And finally, if you live or work in the city centre and have a burning desire to support local and regional producers, you could do worse than stock up at the Farmers’ Market, which is now held twice a month at Piccadilly Gardens (and incorporates the former Organic and Fairly Traded Market).

Farmers’ & Producers’ Market Piccadilly Gardens, city centre, M1 1RG (www.manchester.gov.uk). Second and last weekend of every month, Fri & Sat, 10am-6pm.

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