Manchester

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Eat out at the Urbis

The Modern scales new foodie heights

Branding is a curious invention. It never really loomed large in modern life until the last couple of decades but suddenly you’re no one without a shiny corporate identity. The Modern’s image is of an airline, with airplane seats emblazoned across the menus. It’s a curious image to invoke in a restaurant given that a) most people hate flying and b) airline food is notoriously awful. This branding exercise seems a pointless distraction from what that The Modern is really good at: producing a superb dining experience.

With Urbis’ much-discussed restaurant history it’s a pleasant surprise to see that head chef Paul Faulkner (previously of the OXO Tower) seems unencumbered by the ghosts of the building. The modern British menu is shot through with stylish flourishes, such as the terrine starter of ham hock and Mrs Kirkham’s Lancashire cheese served with a perfect piccalilli (£5.50). A trio of smoked fish with lemon mayonnaise (£7) was simplicity itself, showcasing well-sourced ingredients and a passion for purity that would please even Gordon Ramsay.

Further evidence that there is something special going on the 5th and 6th floors of Urbis is found in the main courses. A pumpkin and goat’s cheese tart (£8.50) managed the difficult trick of being both deliciously rich and light at the same time. The roasted venison stew (£16) with pommes purées was out-and-out magnificence with long wintry flavours that lingered on the tastebuds. The fitting finale consisted of home-made ice-creams (including a wonderful wholemeal bread flavour) and a frighteningly good chocolate bread-and-butter pudding with vanilla custard (£4.50, £5). On two subsequent visits The Modern has seemed undeservedly quiet but, with their high standards and frankly ludicrous lunchtime and pre-theatre offer of three courses for under £16, this will change. Branding aside, The Modern seems to be that most cherished thing: an uncomplicated but decidedly excellent restaurant.

The Modern Bar & Restaurant Levels 5 and 6, Urbis, Manchester, M4 3BG (605 8200/www.themodernmcr.co.uk). Open lunch noon-3pm Mon-Sun; dinner 5pm-10pm Mon-Sun.

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