Manchester

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The rise of the Northern Quarter

Manchester‘s creative centre just gets bigger and better with more cake, beer and even its own festival

Just a few short years back, a walk down Thomas Street after dark was an experience fraught with perils. There were more derelict buildings than done-up ones and creaking CCTV cameras served only to pick up grainy images of gangs leisurely yanking the shutters off shop fronts (no, really). Fast forward to 2008 and there is seemingly no end to the Northern Quarter’s up-and-at-‘em growth. To help you keep up with some of the latest openings and old favourites, here’s our guide to Manchester’s coolest, quirkiest quarter.

Shop!
Look up ‘Northern Quarter’ in the dictionary and you might just find the words ‘kooky’, ‘vintage’ and ‘eclectic’ listed in the description. Following on from the continuing success of Rags to Bitches, a cluster of vintage stores has sprung up around the Oldham Street/Thomas Street crossroads, from American Graffiti to Oxfam Originals. Another addition to the second-hand bunch is Retro Rehab. Nestled next to the Oldham Street frontage of The Northern, Retro Rehab sells a range of vintage dresses alongside original togs, bags, button earrings and soft toys made from sumptuous second-hand fabrics. The old-as-new ethic continues across the road in Bamber’s Art Space. A few months ago, Bamber’s was primarily a gallery for Mark Kennedy’s mosaic artworks and a space for ad-hoc art events. It’s now dominated by Den Interiors’ range of mid-century, salvaged and bespoke furniture – and the one-off sofas, chairs, tables and mirrors are well worth their reasonable price tags. For shoppers itching to craft their own clothes, Rags to Bitches has just started offering dressmaking courses. Pop into the shop for details.
Retro Rehab Oldham Street, M4 1LW (839 2050/www.retro-rehab.co.uk).11am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, Midday-5pm Sun.
Den Interiors Hilton Street, M1 1JJ (07970 444 012/www.denfurniture.co.uk), 10am-5pm Mon-Sat.
Rags to Bitches Tib Street, M4 1LG (835 9265/www.rags-to-bitches.co.uk). Mon, Tue, Thur, Fri, Sat 11.30am-6pm, Midday-6pm Wed.

Coffee table books galore at Magma

Read!
Magma is the place where the Northern Quarter’s design crowd spend their hard-earned cash. Stocked with a bewildering array of glossy, coffee-table and design books (many of which have no words – go figure), Magma also has one of the best ranges of independent magazine titles in the city. It flogs a range of gorgeous stationery (such as the Sukie range of notebooks), too-cool-for-school t-shirts, magazine bags, badges, posters and greetings cards. Although Magma is a chain, with branches in London as well as Manchester, it has worked hard to become part of the Northern Quarter community: staff will call you when your fave magazine has arrived, the store will source obscure publications if it can and the shop front is regularly used as a canvas for street art and urban design ‘exhibitions’.
Magma Oldham Street, M1 1JN (236 8777/www.magmabooks.com).10am-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun.

Cake!
There are now more places to eat and drink in the Northern Quarter than there are days in the year (well, almost). Joining the throng is Mr. Scruff’s latest venture, Cup. The DJ and vinyl junkie has taken over the Vox Pops record store, which, until a few months ago, was home to a teeny outlet of Love Saves the Day. But where previously the café was squeezed in amongst the records, Scruff has transformed the space: it’s now a big, airy café that sells vintage cups and saucers, t-shirts and limited edition posters alongside the tea and cakes. Vox Pops is still there, but is tucked away at the back, its musical noodlings adding to the laid-back vibe. Given Mr Scruff’s much documented fondness for a decent brew, there’s an understandable emphasis on tea here. Scruff’s own-label tea is on offer alongside excellent coffee and an intriguing Detox menu – which includes smoothies (£3.50), juices (such as ‘purify’, a tummy-friendly blend of apple, fennel, cucumber, mint and ginger, £3.25), wheatgrass shots (£2) and a selection of cleansing teas (£1.20). Perfect for purging a Northern Quarter hangover caused by frequenting Odd, Common, The Bay Horse and Socio Rehab, all of which are within a scone’s throw of Cup. There’s enough locally produced and organic food on offer to give Love Saves the Day (next door) a run for its money, lots of homemade cakes and Cup also stocks the rather delicious Pieminster pies (£6 each). Yum.
Cup 53-55 Thomas Street, M4 1NA (834 2004). 8am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, Midday-6pm Sun.

Get in bloom at Northern Flower

Plant!
Squeezed between the The Northern and Rags to Bitches, Northern Flower is the only florists for miles – but despite its bindweed-like grip on the market it remains surprisingly good. From potted spring flowers to office friendly plants, Christmas trees and the odd bottle of fine wine, the service here is always impeccable – and the buckets of cheery blooms provide an innocent foil to the nearby sex shops.
Northern Flower Tib Street, M4 1LG (832 7731/www.northernflower.com). 9am-6pm Mon-Sat.

Drink!
The latest bar to fling open its doors to the Northern Quarter masses, Walrus is a slightly strange kind of a watering hole. For starters, a giant fish tank greets you as you walk inside, through which you can peer into the back room and view the '60s-inspired psychedelic decor beyond. Cocktails are listed by taste (with a sweet, sour and fruit rating) and give no hint as to which spirits give them their alcoholic punch. There’s no beer on tap, but there is a reasonable selection of bottled beers (from Beer Lao to Chang, both £3). Food leans towards Asian fusion, with a short menu of Bento boxes and rice-based dishes. But for some reason, Walrus doesn’t quite fit the Northern Quarter mould. The interior has been crafted by Bernard Caroll, who kitted out Deansgate favourites the Sugar Lounge and Ampersand, which may explain why the overall feel is cold and brash rather than cool and quirky. Along with Bluu (across the road), Walrus on a weekend night feels decidedly more Deansgate Locks than High Street.
Walrus High Street, M4 1ES (828 8700/). Midday-Midnight Sun-Wed, Midday-1am Thur, Midday-2am Fri & Sat.

Party!
News reaches our ears of the first Northern Quarter-based MAPS Festival – so called because it’s a celebration of ‘music, art, poetry and stuff’. Kicking off on May 23 and stretching across the Bank Holiday weekend, this fledgling festival is long overdue. The last Northern Quarter Festival was held sometime before the Millennium and other events, such as the annual Futuresonic festival, don’t quite manage to exploit this creative enclave’s bars, clubs, artists, markets and shops to their full potential. MAPS sets out to showcase this assortment of local talent – it includes Thomas Street resident Mr Scruff, club night ‘Up The Racket’, a fashion market, circus acts and a predicted 150 bands in 12 venues. Watch this site for more MAPS news as it develops.
MAPS Festival venues throughout the Northern Quarter (www.myspace.com/mapsfestival). May 23-26, times and prices tbc.

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