Manchester

River Restaurant

Lowry Hotel, 50 Dearmans Place, Salford

Eyck Zimmer is a technically peerless chef, having honed his craft in London at the Dorchester, Claridge’s and the Ritz. He’s come to because he predicts big things for the city’s food future. His à la carte menu at the River Restaurant is pleasingly varied, featuring the likes of slow-cooked fois gras or roasted scallops for starters and pumkin risotto, grilled whole Dover sole or Cheshire beef fillet for mains. There’s also a Modern British Pie menu (a different pie features nightly, Monday to Friday), plus accomplished and hugely comforting desserts such as sherry trifle or rice pudding. Set daily menus cost a very reasonable £20 for two courses or £25 for three. The views over the Irwell may be uninspiring, but the cooking is triumphant.

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